Trimming Edging

I frequently use a small Stanley plane like this:

I suppose the problem you have with the router and flush trim but is keeping the router stable on the narrow edge? You can mitigate that by clamping a

You can also trim it with a router riding on the plywood surface. You have to temporarily attach a partial plate to the router so it is elevated above the edging and so that thebit is free; you then lower the bit to almost kiss the ply and then trim the edging. Much easier to do this when only twp parallel sides are edged...do those, apply the other two edging strips, trim those.

Mostly, I use the little plane. And yes, it is easier to use than a block plane, much smaller, easy to use in one hand, guiding and controling it with one hand.

"dadiOH" wrote in news:jkuq3s$sdg$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I had the same problems. With the iron-on veneer trim, it's relatively easy with either a sharp utility knife, or a medium-fine rasp file, followed by careful sanding. The 1/4" solid wood is different. I had the most luck with the "Flush-trim Jig" described in Shopnotes August

Puckdropper wrote in news:4f72d928$0$7575$c3e8da3 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:

In similar cases in the past, I've trimmed the edging down using a scraper.

The problem is the router has a tendency to tip because it riding on such a thin edge.

Simplest solution is to clamp more plywood flush with the edge the router is riding on to give you a thicker, more stable, base for your router base to sit on.

Good opportunity to buy a laminate trimmer, like the Bosch Colt, which is made for that very task and much easier to handle.

Or the one from HF, which is about $100 cheaper ($28 vs $125).

Clamp a piece of 2x4 between the piece you are working on and another piece set at the same height as you are working on. Your router now has a 3 inch wide platform to set on.

Are you careful to check the grain before planing?

Tape off the plywood with a gap between the tape and edging, then smooth it with a cabinet scraper. (my choice) I don't put a hook on scrapers, preferring to use them honed, not burnished. They're a bit less aggressive that way, and the edge seems to last longer.

or

Set up your regular router (with a wide enough bit) to cut an RCH above flush, lay another piece of the same plywood next to the edging for support, and run that puppy over the edging. Sand to fit.

or

Get a violinmaker's plane and use it. Use a very thin clamp-on board as a fence to keep the blade off the plywood. It requires precision.

Oops, forgot one. I have a set of these and they're great for tiny work.

-- "When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson

Hmmm. I tried to post this from Google Groups earlier, but no luck.

I'm a novice, but this is what I did. My edging was oak 1x2; it was the

Sorry. Of course the gauge would have been set slightly /below/ the sole of the plane, even with the cutting edge of the iron.

I've got some plywood with a hardwood edging glued on. The edging is thick (1/8-3/16") and a little larger than the plywood, so it needs to be trimmed to exact size.

A hand plane is working pretty well, but occasionally it catches the plywood. I do have a router with flush trim bit, but it tends to be rather difficult to handle on cuts like this.

What can I do to trim the edging without messing up the plywood?

========================================================

Greg Guarino wrote in news:jkv568$q4m$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

That's an interesting idea... I don't have one of those planes, but I do have a Stanely #192 rabbet plane. With a fence along the plywood edge, the same basic effect could be achieved.

I've got several of these to do, so there's lots of opportunity to try different things (and screw up!)

Puckdropper

Swingman wrote in news:So- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I'll second that! I bought a Colt about six months ago for just that reason, and now I'm wondering how I ever got along without one.

Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I don't have a scraper, but it looks like one'll be easy enough to make. I've got an old saw that's not worth my time to sharpen and some method to cut a piece off... (Lotsa options, probably try the hacksaw first then the angle grinder.)

I'm not sure how that would work. Wouldn't the base of the router tend to ride up on the edging, preventing the bit from making a square cut?

Swingman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I haven't tried this with a smaller router, but the big one still wanted to tip a bit. I'll have to give it a try with the smaller router.

Puckdropper

I was going to buy that but upon closer inspection, discovered the base/fence were absolute crap and virtually unusable. Besides that, it seemed fine. :-)

I suppose the only drawback would be that the fence would obscure the ply, making it more difficult to tell when you've got it flush. There are a bunch of the #78 on Ebay, most of them auction format, currently under $20. I don't know what they typically end at. One guy's got a Buy It Now for $60.

I have used a regular sized router and flush trim bit. What I do is take two sides that need to be flushed. I put a small piece of 2x4 between them on each end, clamp them together so that the 2 objects that need trimming support the router. Then I trim inside the channel using the other sides support. Then I flip the pieces and put the outside edges in the channel and do those sides. I already know that the pieces are straight..

I have also done it with a number 4 smoother keeping only the blade on the edging, and highly skewed.

And also a scraper. The flush trim bit proved the easiest.

Go for it!

Oops! You're right. (Armchair suggestion.) So, first, file a small groove in your base plate, or make a new C-style base plate.

-- "When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty." - Thomas Jefferson