I'm edging some plywood, and plan on cutting a wide oak board down into
strips for the edging. The strips will only be about 7/8" wide, which
means a power sander will have trouble sitting flat. Would it be
worthwhile to sand the wide board before I cut it, or will I wind up just
doing extra work?
I'm confused (not unusual <g>) but if I understand this correctly, the
strips are to conceal the plies and thus will have a much larger surface
area (in total) once glued up. You will want them flush with the
surface of the plywood and would be sanding this anyways prior to
finishing. The edge (or face if you will) is going to be 7/8" thick
regardless of whether or not it's on the parent board, standing by
itself ready for glue up, or glued to the plywood as edging.
What am I missing? Under this scenario, I'd just cut the strips, glue
them up and sand, rout or plane the edges flush and finish
That's what I get for posting right before I head to bed...
I've got some 1x oak that I'm planning on cutting into approximately
7/8" wide strips to edge band some plywood. This is for a model
railroad, and will be very similar in design to the one shown here:
The plan is to cut the oak into strips approximately 3/4" by 7/8", with
approximately 1/8" extending out over the plywood to provide a shadow
line. I'll get a similar effect to what's shown in the picture, but
hopefully it will be cleaner.
I'll join the edging to the plywood using loose tenons, and I'm still
debating what to do on the end. I would like a vertical 7/8"x7/8" end
block, but am not sure if I'll be able to find material that size without
cutting something down or having to glue something up. Notice how the
edging just rolls around the edge of the module? (You may have to load
more pictures.) Rather than capping the end like I did before, that's
where I'd like to put that end block. I think it'll look a little nicer.
So on top there will be a visible piece that is now currently the face of
the board. That's the part I was asking about sanding ahead of time.
OK so the cut edge will face up and above the plywood. Lay all of those
pieces with the cut faces up and sand all at the same time.
Or attach to the plywood and sand with a finish sander. With that
narrow of a piece to sand, the sander will/should work quickly. If it
is a decent cut a scraper would be the ideal tool.
Something I have seen old finish carpenters do, Stop the plywood sides
so that they leave a 3/4" x 3/4" recess. The inner surface edges of the
plywood come together, but that is it. Then 45 a piece of plywood and
place in that corner.
Really a matter of preference, along with the dictates of the design,
and the type and thickness of the stock ... not a bad idea to do any
heavy prep first, particularly with regard to thickness.
Do a lot of solid wood banding, and although I rarely have a need to
sand the stock used for banding strips beforehand, some sanding of the
join between the solid and veneer parts is almost always necessary and
can require a delicate touch
In that case I prefer to have everything setup to sand/scrape to a
consistent level and finish with minimum sanding/scraping ... mainly so
I can focus on the delicate part of the task.
But that's just me ...
Thanks for asking ... happy with regard to lack of pain when sleeping
and/or driving, but still varying degrees of numbness after six months,
depending upon what I'm doing.
Basically, too numb to go back to playing bass with a band, but not a
big concern for life in general.
Long as I can cook, I'll take what I can get ...
Depends on the tools you have, your material, and skills.
Some plywood has such a thin finish veneer that it's way too easy to
sand through it. If the plywood you are using has a thicker finish
veneer, it'll be much more forgiving. Scrapers are great for taking out
machining marks on an edging strip of hardwood because you can control
it and bend it so it doesn't scrape the plywood.
I usually glue on edging hardwood strips proud of all dimensions, then
saw/route/scrape/sand down to final size. I have found this produces the
most consistency and results in perfectly straight edges and nice, sharp
Keep this in mind however... plywood and hardwood edging strips will
expand and contract at different rates, so a seem that is smooth and
perfectly flush today, won't be 6 months from now. If you're assembling
in the summer, you might want to leave that seam a few thousandths high
so it's be flush when everything shrinks in the winter. Vice versa in
Depending on the purpose of what you're building, sometimes having the
slightest little lip is a good thing: to keep pens from rolling off the
front of a desk, for instance.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
You are cutting multiple thin strips off a wide board that is about 7/8"
thick, is that right? If so, sanding the face of the wide board isn't going
to accomplish anything as both show and glue sides will have been cut by the
saw (except for one side of the first strip).
It isn't all that hard to sand a 7/8" surface but if you anticipate a
problem, here are two ways to handle it...
1. lay the strips side by side and sand before gluing to the ply
2. if after gluing, clamp some scrap board along the edges, sort of like
You'll probably still need to sand, you can gang sand..
If you sand before, there's a good chance that the particles will still
be around and dull your blade ever so slightly. But I have pre-sanded.
It's really hard to say what's best for you.
Particles of the sandpaper as they break off will embed in the wood.
And ever so slightly dull your blade. If you were doing a lot of this,
your blade would not last.
Where do you think the particles go?
You think they all wind up on the floor or in the vac?
You may be over analyzing. I cut a lot of wood after going through my
drum sander just after resawing. I cannot say if there is an adverse
effect or not. I have my blades resharpened after every 8-10 pieces of
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