laminate edging for kitchen worktop

[MattP]

Hello all.

Have a question which I'm sure's been covered before, but I couldn't find any specific reference to it.

1. How do you 'stick' the laminate edging to the worktop edge

1. There's a slight overhang and I was going to cut it using my 1/2" router with flush trim bit (with bearing). How would you position the worktop to stop it chipping the normal worktop surface?

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

Matt

[Set Square]

Assuming the edging is not self-adhesive, or iron-on (as some is), use an impact adhesive which allows a small amount of position adjustment prior to grabbing. [Probably has "thixotropic" or somesuch in its description]

For removing the surplus, I always use a small Surform - the sort with a

1.5" curved blade and a handle. *Pull* it along the protruding edging at a slight angle to the horizontal (so as not to mark the top surface of the worktop) until almost flush, and finish off with a file - again at a slight angle, with the strokes going inwards over the edging.

[John Smith]

I achieved a very good result by doing the following:

1. I glued on the edging using impact adhesive. I think it was Evostick timebond. Should be called Evilstick because as soon as the tin was opened I got a instant migraine!

1. Once dry I scored the back of the overlap (therefore the worktop side) of the edging strip with a Stanley knife. Then I simply bent the strip over towards the worktop and it snapped producing a very clean line. For where it overhangs the bull nose I shaped the edging with a file, take it slowly and carefully. One point to note is that if you score right through the edging with the Stanley knife it has a habit of chipping.

Very please with the results but couldn't believe how much effort I had to put in just for edging strips!

John