SWITCH

On 4/13/2014 7:48 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote: ...

Not sure on the form factor you're actually looking for, but one of the Ace Hardware affiliates in town has a very decent collection of replacement tool switches. They're in the yellow-box assortment collection area of specialty fasteners, etc., ... The SS, nylon, brass fasteners, assorted other stuff collection all decent h-ware stores have; just some have much larger assortment than others. If you've got one of those around, might be worth a look-see.

The switch on one of the grinders (a cheap Chinese thing I keep the wire wheels on) sounds like made very similar to your description. It's failed a couple of times and have reworked it. It seems that time between failures gets shorter every time and I suspect eventually it'll just quit entirely, but so far it's gone probably 15 yr since the first time, so there' likely a good deal of life left in yours.

Agreed. The saw will be drawing far more than 20A when it starts, not to mention the arcing caused by the inductive load. I'd buy a switch that was rated for motors.

It's a 1HP saw, so about 10A. It draws far more than that when starting, so the 20A circuit. It likely has a NEMA 5-15 plug.

On 4/12/2014 10:49 PM, dpb wrote: ...

See I forgot to paste the link, sorry...

This wasn't at all exhaustive, just first of the form factor was thinking of that came up; you can probably do quite a lot better if really look. But, for TS or the like, this is the form factor I'd prefer and if not going magnetic starter, ...

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:534a07e1$0$61353 $c3e8da3$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:

He really ought to replace the entire unit with a SawStop.

-------------------------------------------------------- Sorry for the omission. Should have included:

Lew

And have it stop when I am not expecting it to?

Right, and don't wear seatbelts either in case you go off a bridge and have to get out quickly.

I think that is overkill... $80 for a switch.. A normal 20 amp wall switch will do.

Much better choice and 35 amp for 110v.

------------------------------------------------------------ "woodchucker" wrote:

---------------------------------------------- As long as you're willing to give up thermal overload protection for the motor.

Lew

Which is USUALLY built into the motor.

You could apply that sentiment to a whole lot of things. Cell phones, computers, microwaves, televisions, etc. The question is, does someone want the convenience of modern day technology or do they want to go the older route.

In the end, it might make up for it if you consider all the time and problems the OP appears to be having to get his machine up and running again.

Lets keep this in perspective. Other that the trip to Raleigh, which the switch was but one of many errands, garden shops. fabric stores, etc. I have spent less that 20 minutes on this project. Most of that time was getting the tracks in place and keeping the plungers in place.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:18:25 -0400, Keith Nuttle

How does the switch know how hot the motor is?

Talking with friends is not a chargeable time

Except for spending the $200-$300 for the new motor, I guess it would. If it was me, I'd just continue cleaning the original every 3-5 years.

You may recall that in the original post, the problem was the SWITCH, not the motor. So even he he bought the new motor, it wouldn't solve the immediate problem the OP had.

I would bet that the original motor has built-in thermal overload, just as many (if not most) contractor saws have had for many many years.