I got a steal (maybe) on a Jet dust collector. The tag says it draws 23
amps, which I assume is the peak amperagw on start up. I have a new 30
amp circuit in the shop. It's popping the 30 amp fuse each time I try
to start her up. Any ideas? I need to get my $2/BF 4/4 clear walnut
(minor gloat) cleaned up and the planer is spitting shavings all over
the shop, some of which I managed to track across SWMBO's rug. Not
pleased with me, is she. She fails to see the value in me spending six
of what we used to call boat units on this set up when I could buy
perfectly good finished stock at the lumber yard.
What voltage? 23A @ 120V would be something otoh 2 hp so I'm guessing
that's it. Running a 240V circuit would probably be cheaper than a time
delay relay if it is simply the starting surge.
Of course, as someone else noted, you got anything else on that circuit?
And it's run w/ 10ga, right?
Nothing else running on the circuit. It's 10 wire. I know just enough
about electricity to know not to stick my fingers in the socket. So ...
can I swap use the #10 wire and up the circuit to 50 amps or do I need
to run #8?
This is a classic case where you want to operate at 240V.
Reconnect the motor to operate at 240V.
Pull a 2P-30A service from your service panel and you are good to go.
Ain't life grand?
Contact your electrician or electrical supply house. You need a
"slow blow" fuse to get everything up and running. The newer
SquareD breakers wouldn't run in my shop - the electrician changed
them all out in the panel. No problems.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Is the motor jamming up? It may have a large chip in the impeller
stopping it from turning...that would cause it to overload your cb. If
the impeller is turning it should suck air. Does it start sucking air
right away? If not unplug it and take it apart to check for
obstruction near or within the impeller assebly.
You could run an experiment to find out if its startup (temporary peak
current) that's popping the breaker, or its the normal load that is
A dust collector is a centrifugal device. The amount of load (aka
current) is dependent on the amount of air its moving. If you
completely close the blast gate(s) in your DC system, the only air
that will move is small (leaks in the system) and should pose minimum
load on the motor.
Close the blast gates and start the dust collector and let it run. If
it continues running, then gradually slide open the blast gate to your
planer. If it continues running after a few seconds, then its the
startup current that's popping the breaker and changing to a different
characteristic breaker will fix the problem. You won't need to
increase your wire size or change to 220v service.
Having said all that, I am with the others and recommend changing to
220v service. Your DC motor will start faster and last longer running
On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:23:02 -0500, " email@example.com"
You got the DC used. It's a 120/240 dual voltage motor. Is it setup
for 120v or 240v? Is your new 30amp circuit 240 or 120. 120v/30a
circuits are not particularly common so I'm guessing that it's 240v.
If your DC is setup for 120 and you're plugging it into 240, that
might be your problem.
If you got it used, don't go by what kind of plug is on the power
cord. Who knows what kind of games the previous owner might have
played. Open the motor's J-box (unplug it first, of course), compare
the wiring diagram on the motor to the way it's actually wired and
insure that it's connected for low voltage if your circuit is 120 and
for high voltage if your circuit is 240.
The motor should run perfectly well on a 30 amp circuit, even at 120v,
if the motor is set up to match the voltage being supplied. A properly
functioning 30 amp breaker will not trip from the startup surge from a
23 amp motor unless the motor is mechanically prevented from starting
or the motor is defective. A 50 amp circuit is definitely not
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