SWITCH

[Keith Nuttle]

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in

1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles 3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.

[-MIKE-]

It will either work or not. It will likely pop the breaker in the power strip or even melt the switch. :-)

If you absolutely need something temporary until you get a replacement safety switch, use a 20 amp light switch.

[woodchucker]

Agreed, the 20amp light switch is the way to go.

[krw]

+1

Unless his power strip is a really expensive unit meant for much heavier duty than the average bear, it'll either pop a breaker or fail. It could be spectacular, though.

[Morgans]

wrote

I predict it will start to melt and then the "magic smoke" will leak out!

[Leon]

Not likely, most are only rated for 15 amp.

[Lew Hodgett]

-------------------------------------------------------- You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would say, "doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Lew

[Keith Nuttle]

Even though it is a 40 year old motor it has been maintained. It is not cost effective to replace the over $200 motor because the $30 switch failed. Do I see over 10 trillion dollars in 5 years

[krw]

Why would you replace a motor just because it's 40 years old. That motor could be better than what you would replace it with today. You're lucky your wife doesn't follow your advice. ;-)

[hubops]

Are you sure that the switch is the problem ? Why are you considering a power bar as a temporary switch ? ... too many unknown variables for me to attempt an answer .. sorry. John T.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [e-mail] ---

[Keith Nuttle]

OP: Yes I am sure the problem the switch. The rocker will not move.

I spending the morning looking for a replacement switch or part at Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, and several other stores. Most had no idea of what I was looking for and the problem of the required 20 amps to starting the motor.

When I got home, I decided to take the switch apart and see what was wrong. The rocker has two plungers, that normally run on to brass/copper tracks in the base. One of the tracks shifted and was out of place. This prevented the rocker from rocking. After some work, my big fingers finally got the tracks in the proper place with the plungers in the proper place. It seems to be working, I hope will last until I get this project done.

By the way, Sears has improved their customer service and move their parts store from Raleigh to Durham. Since I live about 20 miles east of Raleigh for all practical purposes, Sears does not have a parts store in the Raleigh area.

[Morgans]

"Mike Marlow" wrote

He may need to look up a real electrical supply house instead of the big box or local hardware.

[Keith Nuttle]

I was trying to keep with the original item not to rewire the saw. As purchased 45 years ago the original saw came with a switch box, that had two outlets, one through the switch, and the other hot all of the time. The motor was wired with a standard male plug which plugged into the controlled plug on switch box. This switch box was a standard item with catalog number 45 years ago. The switch box was fasten to the under side of the cast iron top.

As a last resort, I know I can get a 20 amp switch, a plug, a box, a face plate and some wire and make my own switch box.

[Lew Hodgett]

---------------------------------------------- "Keith Nuttle" wrote:

---------------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:

How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.

Lew

[pentapus]

Two things...

1)

An inductive load has a turn on/ turn off voltage spike. That will be harsh on the relatively wimpy switches they put in switched outlets.

2)

If it is a 20A only saw, the plug will have one of the pins horizontal, rather than vertical and won't fit.

So...

I think they have covers for handy boxes that will fit a switch and an outlet. Buy a good light switch and use one of those.

Perhaps:

[dpb]

On 4/12/2014 8:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote: ...

...

And he _still_ doesn't have a switch... :(

I gotta' agree that replacing a motor for a switch failure is over the top.

[Lew Hodgett]

-------------------------------------------------------------- "Mike Marlow" wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------------- After ma> Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.

---------------------------------------------------------- "Mike Marlow" wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------------- "Today's technology." You know the kind that has all the control circuitry built into the motor.

Lew

[dpb]

What was the point of the unswitched outlet, anyway, on a TS?

I'd replace it w/ something like the following--I may have one or two unused (I swapped everything over to 240 V magnetic starters) that I'd let go for half that or so if interested...

[Keith Nuttle]

"How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?" ______________________________________________________

The saw was purchased about 1970. I inherited the saw about 1987. My father-in-law had been sick for a long time so the saw got used very little.

At some time in the late 90's the motor died. I took it down to the local small motor repair shop, for a diagnosis of whether I needed a new motor. He looked at it ask a couple of question, and reached for a screw drive. He proceeded to disassemble the motor and found a splinter of wood in a contact in the motor start circuit. He took out the armature and cleaned the old saw dust out of the motor. With each step he showed me exactly what he was doing. He recommended doing that every 3 to 5 years depending on the usage, and to vacuum the vents on the motor with every use.

I have followed his recommendation ever since and the motor is still in good conditions.

As I said in the previous post, after not finding what I wanted for a replacement, I took the switch apart and rebuilt it. I will order a new switch on line. That is what I did for my ShopVac after that switch failed.

[none]

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 08:48:45 -0400, Keith Nuttle

Wouldn't this solution be moot if he bought and used a TEFC motor?