I am considering a Delta Unisaw (36-816), made in 1999.
I know it has a "splitter" whereas new models have a "riving knife", to avoid kickback.
I read somewhere that "some Delta Unisaws has splitter's of such poor design that they are useless". I'm not sure if the 1999 model deserved that comment.
Can anyone advise me regarding this detail concerning the saw above? I'm just wondering whether this a reason to look for a different saw? Based upon the Unisaw's reputation I'm guessing that the answer is no, but I want to ask anyway.
That model does have a different splitter than the later models in that it attaches at two locations instead of one.
That said, since most of those familiar with table saw use immediately remove the blade guard and kickback pawls and all the nuts, bolts, pins that hold them onto the splitter, I can't imagine the function of the actual splitter that is left being any different than any other.
My Unisaw is a different model, and all the extraneous stuff that doesn't look like a splitter has been removed, works simply as a splitter, and does a good job of that and, while I don't use a blade guard, I do _always_ use a splitter on through cuts.
Regardless, I certainly would not let that remark you saw kill an otherwise good deal on a used Unisaw.
FWIW, if you do decide to buy it and want to replace the blade guard with the overhead Delta blade guard and use just the splitter, I have one I'm not using that I will part with for a nominal price, plus shipping, that is similar to this one:
Thank you for your comments. AAMOF, the saw I am looking at has an overhead blade guard. Figuring how to load it into a rented pick-up truck 200 miles away is among my highest concerns. I need to call and ask related questions (but it's advertised as "you're on your own").
When I bought mine I rented a motorcycle trailer from u-haul. It's very low to the ground and made loading/unloading a 1 man job. Provided one removes the table extensions & fence rails. Art
If it is a Delta UniGuard, it came with its own splitter, and that would be different from the stock splitter that came with the saw ... a much better splitter, in the Beis style.
Does the prospective saw have a mobile base?
If the saw does not have a mobile base, buy one from Delta before you go!
I'm serious ... :)
You will want a mobile base in any case, and it, and a rented truck with a "TommyLift" tail gate, makes the job a "no sweat" proposition, AND you don't need to disassemble the saw.
(In the last four years Leon and I have moved my Unisaw three times, and his Jet cabinet saw once, both fully assembled)
On a mobile base, we can load a Jet cabinet saw or Unisaw, fully assembled with a 52" fence and table, into the back of a 16' box truck in less than 30 seconds without breaking a sweat. AAMOF, the Unisaw is much easier to load than a 14" bandsaw, or floor standing drill press.
Rent that truck with a "Tommy Lift" tail gate. It was what the man who delivered my Unisaw when I first bought it used, and it indeed was a one man job thus equipped, and with the mobile base.
Besides, what it costs to rent a thusly equipped truck is cheap compared to the time it takes to take the saw apart, re-assemble it and, most importantly, _accurately_ reassemble it without the tools and expertise to do so ... a Unisaw is not a contractors saw!
I'm not sure those grow on trees! : ) What about a U-haul 5'by9' trailer with a ramp? I'll look into what you said.
So you use an appliance dolly to help me it onto the mobile base?
The best thing I have been able to find so far is a U-haul 5'by9' trailer having a ramp. It appears do-able..surely an illusion..lol.
I'll see if I can find a thusly equipped rental truck.
Gosh, I didn't realize it would be that complex. A few weeks ago Amazon had new Unisaws (52") for $2750 delivered to the door. With Grizzly 691 up to almost $1500 this season, including shipping, the Delta starts looking attractive by comparison.
For some reason the new Delta price went up $550 to $3299 in the last 3 weeks or so.
I will also need to provide a COI ("Certificate of Insurance") for $2 million dollar worth of General Liability Insurance in order to remove the saw from the premises. Any guess as to what I might expect to pay for for that? It better be a small fraction of the $2 Million... ;)
Thanks for all the suggestions--it's good to outline the whole plan before I buy the saw!
No hand truck. I just "walked" it up a short ramp and up to the front of the trailer. I did have plywood under it on the trailer. The wheels of the trailer were in the gutter putting the back end almost on the driveway. I did not flip the saw upside down. Art
Like I've observed before, if you don't rush but instead put off expenses like this over a number of months, the sting is not as intense...
My wife is sooo tirrred of hearing about table saws, bless her heart, that I don't think she cares what it takes to resolve it. If a traveling door-to-door tablesaw salesman brought over a nice one, she would probably be happy to give him his price! She wouldn't care what it cost me! : )
Our only TV is 16 year old. Admittedly if it quits working, I'll probably just replace it. That reminds me, I forgot to blow out the candle over the icebox...grumble grumble..land of milk an' honey...grumble grumble...
Second the recommendation. I have the similar one for the Jet cabinet saw, and it's excellent. Pain in the neck to align the mount when ytou install it (has to be inline with the saw blade, obviously) but when in place it's superb, and really easy to remove and replace.
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