Sealing Pine Knots

We are repeatedly reminded by our regular Benjamin Moore dealer (Southwestern Paint/FM 1960) that coming EPA regulations will mandate remaining levels of solvent(s) in alkyd paints out in the not-so-distant future.

If it's a tract house then the last guy was probably the builder and the paint was probably Monarch, the cheapest available. We regularly see five-six-seven year old homes with their trendy, exterior crown or other millwork rotting off due in no small part to poor detailing and cheap materials (which includes the choice of paint).

Don't think the builder would have painted it white on top of blue on top of green. And I'm pretty sure there's a layer or two under the green.

).

True enough; you're situation doesn't qualify.

What do you use for trim? For doors or bookshelves, where you don't want sticking and callbacks?

Not sure, but shellac is faster.

There are lots of good non-blocking latex paints available.

Thu, Oct 25, 2007, 9:38am (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Ferd=A0Farkel) doth query: What do you use for trim? For doors or bookshelves, where you don't want sticking and callbacks?

Latex. Latex. Latex. Paint every damn near everything with latex. I'm even thinking of painting my truck with latex. The only thing I use oil base paint for anymore is painting my tools yellow. I'd use latex on them too, but I don't feel like being bothered with primer first.

JOAT It's not hard, if you get your mind right.

- Granny Weatherwax

Love to try one. What brands?

Actually you may not have much choice but to paint your truck with waterborne paint in a few more years. Not latex, but not oil either. Your tax dollars at work.

Thu, Oct 25, 2007, 9:47pm snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (J.=A0Clarke) doth sayeth: Actually you may not have much choice but to paint your truck with waterborne paint in a few more years. Not latex, but not oil either. Your tax dollars at work.

I bought a can of spray latex (yellow, of course), to try out. Used it on some old .50 ammo cans. Seemed to go on just as well as regular spray paint, and seems to be holding up as well too. Smelled better too.

JOAT It's not hard, if you get your mind right.

- Granny Weatherwax

The last I used was Pratt & Lambert. It was a satin "antique white", leaning towards gray / violet. I know "antique white" narrows it down for maybe 500 colors. No sticking at all on doors, bookshelves and CD shelves.

I'm not anti-alkyd. I really like Ben Moore's "Fresh Start" primer for problem moist bathrooms.

My '05 American-made Tacoma _is_ painted with waterborne, as it was built in Northern California. They've been doing this there for years. The same factory also builds Toyota Corollas and Pontiac Vibes --> .

From what I've seen with high-quality waterborne finishes, we shouldn't worry.

I have no idea what paint is on Mexican-built Tacomas, though.

Back when I flew r/c combat, 7-8 years ago, I used spray latex on foam wings, as solvent based paint would eat the foam. I thought it worked pretty well then, and would imagine it getting better.

Maybe instead of just sealing the knots, seal the entire surface. It should give you a consistent base then prime with an alkyd primer before painting.

Kate

Does anyone else use something besides shellac to seal the knots that works well when painted? I know Zinser makes a primer that includes shellac and I've used it before but after a year or so, the knots still bleed through.

My method once sanding is complete is to put the shellac on the knots, sand lightly with 220 grit, then apply latex primer, sand again lightly with 220 grit, then apply latex paint.

Thanks in advance.

I've used Kilz over pine, it DOES allow bleeding of tanins from the wood. Sorry... Kate

If you want to stick with shellac you can stry scuff sanding before you do a top coat. With Killz you can build it up thick and then sand it out to get a very smooth base for your paint, which is really reccomended for any over wood application if you want smooth finish.