Had a project to do recently and decided to use Gorilla tape as duct
tape just wouldn't have been strong enough. I am left with a problem
however: odor! The smell from the tape is bad enough that it has
triggered my sinuses and my eyes are irritated at times. Unfortunately,
the project is too detailed to have to start over again. Is there any
way to stop the odor from this tape and leave the tape intact?
Bill Cheeseman;3041269 Wrote:
> Had a project to do recently and decided to use Gorilla tape as duct
It's probably because the backing of the Gorilla tape is porous and the
solvents from the glue are evaporating through the back of the tape.
About the only thing I can think of are either improved ventillation or
to cover your Gorilla tape with packaging tape (which does have an
impermeable plastic backing:
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the way the project was completed,
it is nearly
impossible to go back and cover up the Gorilla tape. Well, at least not
as the entire item would have to be disassembled first. One thing I'm
wondering about and maybe you can answer is, will this smell decay over
time? I just applied the tape yesterday so it's fresh, but on the other
hand if it's going to take weeks or months, then I'll go with your
suggestion. One other alternative I was thinking about that would not
require disassembly: do you think I could spray the areas with the
spray version of liquid electrical tape? It would leave the rubberized
coating wherever I sprayed it and it would be easier to apply than
On 04/04/2013 11:30 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I looked for spray paint poly yesterday, but couldn't find it. That was
my first thought though. I did pick up some others as I mentioned in my
other response, so hopefully one of those will do the trick.
Bill: An alkyd based polyurethane will only make the film slightly more
impermeable than a normal alkyd spray paint. All you need is a normal
oil based spray paint.
I've never used either of the two products you bought, BUT...
"Breathing" is the ability of any coating to allow individual H2O
molecules to pass through it, but not liquid water.
The reason why acrylic paints (like latex paints) are said to "breathe"
is because the resins they're made of consist of long molecules
scrunched up into small balls. Imagine scrunching a long copper wire
into a small ball. No matter how tightly you squeezed it, there would
be tiny gaps between the individual wire loops that would allow a fine
enough powder to pass through the wire ball. It is these gaps that H2O
molecules pass through in order for latex paints to "breathe". Since
those tiny gaps are smaller than the distance between H2O molecules in
liquid water, individual H2O molecules can pass quite easily through a
film of latex paint, but not liquid water.
Anyhow, the molecules cause the smell would be much larger than H2O
molecules and might not be able to pass through the Krylon acrylic film,
but an alkyd paint is impermeable enough to even to allow individual H2O
molecules to pass through it.
So, if it wuz me, I would just use an ordinary spray paint.
I don't know if the rubberized sealant will work or not, but I'm
confident that any alkyd spray paint will work. And, getting an alkyd
based polyurethane is not going to make the film appreciably more
impermeable. The only difference between alkyd resins and
"polyurethane" resins is that the polyurethane resins have a chemical
called an "isocyanate" added to them. This isocyanate reacts with
glycerine molecules in the alkyd resin to create urethane linkages
inside the alkyd resin. Those urethane linkages work very much like the
roll cage in a race car, making the resin harder if you tried to squeeze
one and stronger if you tried to stretch one. This is why alkyd based
polyurethanes form harder and stronger films than normal alkyd paints.
But, the impermeability of the film they form won't be appreciably
different. Both will be impermeable enough to prevent even individual
H2O molecules from passing through them, so why hold off on buying a
poly when any alkyd spray paint will work fine?
Ok, I painted with the clear coating spray paint this afternoon:
Krylon Crystal Clear spray paint @ http://goo.gl/OdAOB
I decided to apply two coats and then let it dry outdoors for a couple
of hours before bringing it in. Tonight I have it in the room where it
will hopefully remain permanently. I still let the room air out for
several hours with the windows and ceiling fan. It still gets cold here
at night, so I just closed up a while ago. Bottom line is that I think
you were right as the smell is much reduced. I'd almost say eliminated,
but I still smell traces when closer to the object, although this may be
the paint still curing (I'm not sure how long it takes spray paint to
cure but I thought the can said something about 24 hours for a complete
curing/ drying although I was moving the object indoors after two hours).
However, it appears that 6 feet away, the smell is no longer an issue
and I'm sure less odor will occur over time. The night before last, the
odor from the tape was too great to even stay in any part of the room
for too long. Thanks for the help!
I also contacted the maker of Gorilla glues and tapes about the smell
and they told me that it should disperse in a couple of days on it's
own. They suspected that either a well sealed or brand new roll was
purchased ("brand new" in this case meaning it didn't have a very long
shelf life in the store) and glue odors were still being produced.
Although this tape is now covered with the paint, I still have some of
the original roll remaining. I may place it somewhere in the house just
to see if the smell will disperse on its own. They were very courteous
in their reply which is something I don't always encounter these days.
I didn't notice any particular odor with gorilla. I'll give a better sniff.
I usually speed dry crystal clear enamel with hair drier unless I want more
shine. Should be odor free soon. Any heating will force odor out unless
it's fully cured which could take days. I started using krylon over 30
years ago setting labeling on equipment panels.
> disassembly: do you think I could spray the areas with the spray
> version of liquid electrical tape? It would leave the rubberized
> coating wherever I sprayed it and it would be easier to apply than
> packing tape.
I've never even heard of a spray version of electrical tape.
But, I'm thinking spray paint is an alkyd paint and SHOULD form an
impermeable film over the Gorilla tape, and that's all you need to stop
the smell; an impermeable film. (see PS below)
Even painting boiled linseed oil (if you can't buy an alkyd paint or
primer anymore where you live) over that gorilla tape with a 3 inch wide
paint roller should knock the smell down substantially too.
But, maybe give it a day or two for the smell to dissipate on it's own.
It might still do that.
PS: When there's a fire in a house and the house still has that "burnt"
smell in it even after all the burnt materials have been removed, it's
because the compounds causing the smell have permeated into the porous
latex paint on the walls and ceilings. To eliminate the smell,
restoration companies will often repaint the interior walls and ceilings
of the house with a product called "KILZ" sealer:
Ditto if someone buys a house that a heavy smoker used to live in. The
new owners will often paint the walls and ceilings with KILZ sealer
before repainting over the sealer with a new colour paint to get rid of
the "cigarette smoke smell".
And, I have absolutely no clue why people use KILZ sealer for this
instead of any ordinary alkyd primer or paint. People who don't know
much about paint presume that KILZ is different than other alkyd primers
or paints because KILZ dries much more quickly than a regular alkyd
primer or paint. But, if you look at the MSDS for KILZ, you find that
it's an ordinary alkyd primer, and the only reason why it dries fast is
because instead of using just mineral spirits as a thinner, it uses a
mixture of 60 percent mineral spirits and 40 percent naptha. Naptha is
camping fuel, and it evaporates much faster than mineral spirits. So,
when you paint with KILZ, what evaporates from the wet KILZ film is
different, but what drys up on the wall and remains there is exactly the
same as if you'd use any ordinary alkyd primer.
And, it's not that primers seal smells in better than paints, it's that
alkyds crosslink much more densely than drying oils like linseed oil or
Tung Oil, and it's that crosslinking that makes for a more impermeable
film than you can get with a drying oil.
So, if a spray paint works for you, then you can use any spray paint,
not just KILZ to seal in the smell of that glue solvent. I don't think
they make water based spray paints, so any spray paint you buy should be
an alkyd paint thinned with alcohol (or naptha or acetone) so it dries
really fast. (It doesn't matter what the thinner they use is cuz ALL of
the thinner will evaporate from the paint film as it dries.)
Here are the two spray paints I picked up yesterday:
Krylon Crystal Clear spray paint:
Rust-Oleum LeakSeal Flexible Rubber Coating:
Hopefully, one of these will work. I'm leaning toward the second
(rubber coating) but may be overkill and the clear acrylic will do the
I appreciate your contribution to this thread. Thanks a lot.
there are different kilz products. the one kilz is recommended for
contains shellac, and is used to hide water stains and such, because it
will stick to most anything, and most anything painted over it will
stick to that kilz product.
Hope it works out. If it doesn't, keep in mind that you can
always paint over that acrylic clear coat with an oil based spray paint,
thereby establishing a truly impermeable film over everything.
I think you're mixing up two different primer/stain killers made by two
KILZ or, as it's called nowadays, "KILZ Original" is made by MasterChem
Industries, and it contains lotsa naptha, but no shellac at all.
BIN, is made by Zinssers and is a shellac based primer/stain killer.
Zinssers calls it a "white pigmented shellac" which is just their way of
saying "it's a shellac, but it's white in colour cuz we put lots of
white pigments into it".
When a stain "bleeds through" a paint or primer, what's actually
happening is that something in the stain is dissolving in the mineral
spirits or water the primer or paint is thinned with, and then diffusing
through the wet primer or paint film to discolour the surface of the
film. When that film dries, the surface will remain discoloured, and
that discolouration is called "bleed through".
So, the whole trick to preventing bleed through is to use a primer or
paint who's thinner won't dissolve the stain. In 99% of cases, if the
stain dissolves in the water of a latex primer, it won't dissolve in the
mineral spirits thinner of an alkyd primer or paint, and if it dissolves
in mineral spirits, it won't dissolve in the water of a latex primer or
The reason why shellac makes a good stain killer is because:
a) you're correct that it'll stick to just about anything short of a raw
b) not nearly as many common household wall or ceiling stains are as
soluble in alcohol as are soluble in mineral spirits or water, and
c) since dry shellac is only dissolved by alcohol, you can paint over
the dried shellac stain killer with EITHER oil based or latex paint
without fear that the paint thinner will dissolve the shellac and allow
the stain to bleed through again. That is, you're confident that the
shellac will "encapsulate" the stain.
So, while they're both good products, BIN is the one with the shellac in
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