I need a primer that sticks well (wood) and is exceptionally easy to sand.
International makes/used to make one that was originally developed to fill
the grain on Phillipine mahogany but last I looked it was $100+ per gallon.
It was wonderful, dried ready to sand in 2-4 hours (lots of xylol IIRC) but
it is way too pricey. Auto body primer works but is lacquer based and meant
I need something that can be brushed and/or rolled, don't care if it is
water or oil base as long as it can be dry sanded in no more than 24 hours
(the International dried in an hour or so, easily sanded in maybe 2-4
All suggestions welcome, actual experience with the recommendation counts
Couple of coats of 1/2 lb shellac followed by a coat of 2 lb
shellac.(Allow 24 hrs between coats).
Wait two weeks, then sand smooth with 220 grit, wipe with a tack rag
A lot less cost than shooting epoxy high build primer at $100/gal.
For paint, these are my two favorites:
I use this even under the high performance finishes. Actually, just
about under all my painted finishes. Goes on easy, sanding time is
short, and you can build up coats with it. I use it on kitchen
refinishes and have never had a problem. It lays out great and sands
The other would be the 10th one down here.
this might work better:
It is the SW "Easy Sand". Good stuff if the wood isn't beat up and
not too dirty.
For really rough wood, I like to prime it with the one above the Easy
Sand, called the Pro Build. That stuff isn't like anything else on
the market, and why they don't market the daylights out of it I don't
You can't spray it; it has to be rolled or brushed. It has so much
silica in it, it will fill oak tubules with just a couple of coats.
It dries fast, covers everything, sticks well..... I would think they
would look at it as a premier product.
It is NOT good for smooth surfaces though like birch, poplar, maple,
etc. It leaves the surface too rough and requires too much sanding to
get back to smooth.
As always, just my 0.02.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/sherwin_williams_paint/sherwin_williams_paints/primers/interior /> It is the SW "Easy Sand". Good stuff if the wood isn't beat up and
Bingo. The product data for it sounds much like the International I used to
use. I suspect the shellac base Zinsser would serve too. Or plain shellac
+ pumice (or whiting).
Many thanks to you and all others forthe input.
Benjamin Moores Enamel Underbody [ oil] I would use it 1-2 coat and
sand with maybe 220-320, finish with Satin Impervo thinned with
Penetrol to the point it was just almost to thin and the finish looks
sprayed on, use Tack cloth and real good China brush. There might be
other sandable primers but this stuff sands fast as thats its purpose.
I have doors I can see myself in like a mirror that look great after
25 years. Only P&L Effecto and Moore Impervo line flow out perfectly,
and I tried everything sold here. The Penetrol makes it work, but
universal tints ruin the flowing out somewhat so factory powder pre
tinted is best, like White.
If you are using a pigmented paint over it (or an oil based finish such as
polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, Tung oil, etc.) I'd suggest using Plaster
of Paris to fill the grain first, then prime and top coat. It's cheap, fills
open grain well, dries fast, sands easily (and disappears with an oil
finish). Plaster of Paris was commonly used as a filler in furniture
factories in the past. I've found it works great with white oak, red oak and
other open grained woods under an oil finish. I've also used it to smooth
out construction grade BC plywood before painting where the finish was sort
of important... a rare situation but it worked fine.
PS, It's also better than glue and sawdust for fixing gaps in dovetailing
when an oil finish is planned...
Yup... mix it as usual or a bit looser. Spread it with a taping knife or
plastic bondo spaltula and push it into the surface to insure a good fill...
It dries fast and then you can sand it off.
Pumice does work with shellac. My last piece, that I had at Woodworkers
Showcase, was a shellaced knitting chest made from white oak and walnut. The
grain was filled with pumice.
Some French polish techniques start by oiling the wood and
then sprinkling on a light dusting of pumice. The pumice abrades
the wood under the pad, thus creating a wood filler. I've found it
faster just to lay on a few heavy coats of shellac, then wet sand
with naptha and finish with a pad, no pumice, no oil, which has
to be spirited off. Open grained or curly woods look deeper when
you don't muddy them with an opaque paste.
I've used shellac under lacquer with great results. Straight
from the can, 3 lb cut, slop it on, wait a couple of hours, then
sand level. This was on white oak, and the lacquer finished
dead flat, like a pane of glass.
One of the guitar making sites I read recommended drywall
mud (joint compound) under paint. Also good under a clear
finish if you tint it with water based stain to match the wood
I use that (mud) sometimes, works well for smoothing and sanding but not for
sealing. Of course, the first topcoat seals it but the more topcoats I have
to put on the more opportunities I have for messing up :)
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