I just read through a search on Google and found some interesting
stuff but no real source for black laquer. Can I buy straight black
laquer or do I have to mix clear with a pigment or dye? I'm looking to
build a case for video tapes and hope to use my new HVLP sprayer to
put on the finish. Recommendations for this would be helpful as well
since I've never ised laquer or the HVLP gun.
Thanks in advance
Black lacquer is available thru any industrial supplier, If you cannot find
one then you can get it from any Auto paint store.
Look in you Yellow pages for paints, wholesale, Industrial,
In every major city, Shrwin Williams has one Industrial Center, for lacquers
etc that is where you want to go,
The other million Shewin Williams stores are for house paints, some stains
Some will get you the lacquers, some do not want to be bothered.
Buying Lacquer form the Auto Industry can get quite Expensive, Higher
Quality not required for wood.
But it does a great job.
The lacquer from www.targetcoatings.com is WATER based so it is not
hazardous. I have had very good luck with it and it is easy to clean the
hvlp equipment after use. The coats of lacquer "burn" together when you
apply them. This means that you do not get witness lines if you cut through
an outer coat when rubbing out the finish.
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:07:01 -0400, "David Chamberlain"
How does water based lacquer burn in? Isn't that a function of the
solvent in subsequent coats?
I'm not familiar at all with the stuff, but I'm intrigued. I would
love to use lacquer that isn't an extreme health and explosion hazard.
I don't know how they do it but their ads claim that the layers do burn
together. I do not that I have rubbed out runs and have not gotten witness
lines unlike some other products. I have used the lacquer for the past two
or three years and I find it very accommodating. I can put on three, four
or sometimes five coats in one day. After the first coat, I sand with a
440-600 foam pad to knock off the raised grain. I usually find that three
coats is more than adequate for my furniture so I can get one side
completely finished and make a good start on the second side in one day.
I copied this from their site:
Oxford Premium Spray Lacquer (PSL) is a unique water-based hybrid, copolymer
acrylic engineered to provide the discriminating finisher with a
water-white, 100% burn-in coating that will out perform typical
nitrocellulose lacquers and catalyzed finishes. Developed for high-end
applications where durability, chemical resistance and ease-of-use is
Oxford Premium Spray Lacquer will out perform conventional nitro-lacquers
and CAB Acrylic systems without the environmental and safety issues
associated with solvent based products.
Ideally suited for kitchen cabinets, high-build lacquer applications or
flush-fill production runs, Oxford Premium Spray Lacquer offers a
ready-to-shoot, one-part finish that matches conventional lacquer dry time
and recoat schedules. By offering a higher solids content, Oxford Premium
Spray Lacquer lowers VOC emissions upwards of 50%*. Engineered to be HAPS
Free (Hazardous Air Pollutants) Oxford Premium Spray Lacquer eliminated
hazardous solvent exposure in the workplace.
Oxford Premium Spray Lacquer offers versatility and flexibility in
application and final finish needs. Oxford PSL is engineered to handle a
wide range of spray applications such as, Conventional, HVLP and
Airless/Air-Assist. Oxford PSL can be wet-sanded and polished without the
worry of exposing witness lines due to its' unique burn-in characteristics.
Clarity and depth-of-image is exceptional, allowing for a bright, high gloss
clear coat over dark woods and stains. Oxford PSL readily accepts tints and
dyes and can be color adjusted with Trans-TintT Dyes.
Available in Gloss (1000) and Satin (1500)
www.targetcoatings.com has some good stuff. I used their spray lacquer
extensively and have had great luck. They have white and black but in matte
finish. I used the white for the inside of some cabinets and it worked
great. I am not sure if you could spray some clear gloss on top of the
Here is the black lacquer:
Touchup Depot located in Baytown, Texas has a variety of pigmented lacquers
for sale. I have had excellent service from them. You can contact them at
www.touchupdepot.com or at 1 (866) 883-3768. They provide very fast
shipping/delivery times. Be warned, lacquer is a clasified as hazardous
shipping material and carries a premium handleing and shipping charge
regarless of who you buy it from.
Buy straight black automotive lacquer. Buy gray auto primer and a gallon of
lacquer thinner. Buy a tube of spot putty. It is thick primer in a
toothpaste tube. It is nice to have some automotive paint fish eye remover.
It comes in a can like lighter fluid or a bottle like contact lens cleaner.
Sand your work first. If you don't have a DA air sander, you can use an
electric orbital. Use a 320 grit if the wood is already real smooth. Prime
with the gray lacquer. You can start with a 20% paint 80% thinner ratio. It
helps to strain the primer into the gun cup through a regular paper
strainer. If the primer is not filling the sandpaper scratches and seems too
thin, add a little more primer up to 30%. You can return unused primer to
the can. Prime the shit out of the work and don't worry about runs, you're
learning and it won't matter with primer. Let the primer harden (dry) well.
Lacquer shrinks when it hardens. In AZ it will dry in 5-10 minutes. On the
east coast it may be a half hour. Don't worry about blush in the primer
coats, but if you get blush with the primer, you are definitely going to get
it with the black paint. It's a hint to wait for a dryer day, drain the
Never paint lacquer under 55 degrees. The hotter the better. The dryer the
air, the better. The more expensive (higher grade) the thinner, the less
chance of blush. Retarder can be purchased and used in the thinner and paint
mixture in the cup. A shot of retarder in the cup usually does the trick,
but makes the paint slower to dry, and can cause runs if you stand on the
gun too much. You should be shooting at about 35 lbs or less pressure with
Once the primer dries, block sand it with 400. Blow off the work with air.
If you see scratches that weren't filled, use a little rubber squeegee like
for putting on window tint, and squeegee some body putty over the
imperfections. After the putty dries, block sand it and primer again. You
can repeat this process of priming and sanding until your work is as smooth
as plexiglass and feels like it when you touch it.
Blow dust off, and make sure your area is clean. Tack it off with a tack
rag. It will be smooooth.
Now mix your black lacquer and thinner and spray double pass over the work.
Don't blow paint on dry. make sure your overlapping coats are wet, as with a
Look for imperfections. It's still timely for putty or sanding, you simply
go back to the priming process when it all dries.
If all is well, wait for the lacquer to dry a little, say 10 minutes or more
, and do another pass. In Phoenix, wait 3 minutes. Patience in applying the
lacquer will put you ahead of the others in skill. You need about 3 double
passes to cover. Because you may not hold the gun even at first, you may
want to make about 5 double passes or so to cover adequately. If you see
blush on any pass, stop immediately and add retarder to the cupabout an
ounce per full cup.. Make a fast pass over your work with the retarder, and
watch it for a few minutes to see if it is getting rid of the white. If not
add another shot of retarder to the cup and after a few minutes, do a fast
single pass again. If the blush stays, stop working and dump the retarded
paint into a clean separate container and wait until tomorrow.
Now, the next day, check to see if the retarder worked. If it did (probably)
lightly block the work with 400 grit and put on your remaining coats without
retarders. If you get blush, see above.
If the retarder didn't work overnight, block it out with 400 grit and paint
again and use the retarder mix you saved. Always be less agressive painting
with retarder mixed in because it slows drying time dramatically, to allow
the moisture to rise out of the paint.
Now, if you are painting and the surface is contaminated because of silicone
or oil in the air or finger oil on the primer, etc, you will see little
voids the size of pinheads where the paint won't stick. You may also see
them grow larger into chicken pox. Don't panic. Add a squirt or two of fish
eye remover to the cup and continue spraying. Fish eye remover works in just
about all paints, enamel and lacquer and a little bottle or can will last
you a year or more. The fish eye remover makes the paint flow more and
increases the chance of runs, so don't stand on the gun. Allow a couple
minutes more drying time between coats. I helps make a nice finish though.
If after 3 more double passes, you can still see the fish eyes in your work,
let it dry and wait until the next day. discard the paint with the fisheye
remover, or save it in a separate can.Now after waiting a day,. block the
work with 400 grit and paint again with a clean mix in the cup.Lacquer is
very forgiving, and you can rework it forever. When you have a nice coat on
your work, let the lacquer harden a day or two, or more. Then 1000 grit the
work (you can wet sand it), and machine or had buff it. If you find an
imperfection while using 1000 grit, go back to 400 or the imperfection area,
and shoot another coat. wait a day, and block it with 1000 grit and buff.
Your work will look like black chrome. Remember. Henry Ford's original
favorite color, black was brush painted lacquer, which was then sanded and
buffed to a mirror shine.
It's been my understanding that you don't use automotive lacquer on
wood, as the auto lac won't give like lacs made for wood. ie: it'll end
up cracking if there is appreciable wood movement. Any experience to
prove that wrong? Thanks!
juan fandango wrote:
personally? try FINDING automotive lacquer.
if you do find it, it might be very old stock, like 10 years
stuff... its not used any more except on very custom cars, due to
several problems with it (sunlight fading is a REAL problem), and
the new stuff, is not cheap. it 'cracks or chips' real easy too,
on cars and thats also a strike against it.
I can buy a lot of 'other finishes' for what new fancy car
lacquer costs. IMO.
Well...it depends. MOST of the formulations are "synthetic"
lacquers, and have enough plastic in them that they are well able
to deal with the movement of woods. There are still some
formulations, though, that are "more brittle" and less able to
flex, so will cause problems.
One of the worst finishes for handling wood shrinkage is the original
Asian urushiol lacquer. The "tenting" failure mode is quite common on
AIUI, car paint is flexible, especially some of the modern ones that
are usable on moulded plastic bumpers / fenders, but it's not too good
on elongation. However items that you paint like this are often made
of manufactured sheetgoods (ply, MDF) rather than classic solid timber
and are inherently more stable. A coat of impermeable paint then slows
moisture transfer further.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
email@example.com (Ron) wrote in message
When I refinished a piano bench a few years ago, I contacts Seinway
and they gave me their source for what they use on their $20,000
pianos. Now I know why they go for 20 grand, as a gallon of the paint
Looks great, though.
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