Funny thing, my dad did this many years ago to cut some paneling. It worked so
well he kept it set up for years out back.
Using a sheet of 3/4 plywood, which could be cut down some, rout a slot near the
center for the blade. Mount the circular saw. Flip it over. Now you have a table
saw. For a fence, we used some hard wood, I forget the size, 1x3 maybe. The
fence was attached with some wing bolts through slots for adjustment. The hard
part was to get the fence square. It was crude, but it worked well for large
sheets of plywood.
An inline switch was installed for power.
Sorry this rig was crude, so no plans. It just filled the need at the time.
Faustino Dina wrote:
I recall ShopNotes magazine had a nice plan for just what you want. I
didn't have a need for it so I don't remember when the issue was, but I bet
if you search their web site or contact them they'd be glad to help you.
They sell back issues so you should be able to find the right issue.
Larry C in Auburn, WA
"Faustino Dina" < email@example.com> wrote in message
I was thinking along the same lines, but my circ saw has a button
that needs to be held down for the saw to work. If you have a
similar saw, might be difficult to table-mount it...
If anyone has idea on how to get around this, I would love to hear!
Faustino Dina wrote:
Twist wire on the around the handle and power switch of the saw to hold it
in the ON position, and plug it into a switched power source. Make your own
using a light switch and plug from your local hardware place, or use a power
bar, or whatever. Not sure if you'll shorten the life of the motor of your
saw using a non motor rated switch, but there you go.
Hirshe (sp?) sells or sold a portable table that does just want you
want. It has a fence and miter gauge and doesn't do a bad job (not
really for fine work). I've got one somewhere in the shed. I used it on
site for ripping exterior trim, spacers, etc. Easier than dragging a my
delta site saw when only a few cuts were needed.
My SIL took a $10 circular saw from a garage sale, cut a zero clearance slot
in scrape sink cutout, and mounted the whole thing on an old printer stand.
With the addition of a diamond blade, and "fence" C-clamped in place, he had
a very useable tile cutting saw. (He didn't even remove the sole plate. He
just drilled holes in it and used it to screw to the underside of scrap
cutout). It definitely wouldn't pass an OHSA safety inspection, not with
that naked blade sticking up, but it works very well.
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