This isn't really much in the way of a "fine woodworking" question, but I
hope it will be close enough to on topic.
I bought a metal shelving unit that uses particle board to put on top of the
structure. The particle board, of course, is unfinished.
As I will be at least putting a coat of primer on the particle board, I am
looking for a way to seal up the edges.
I have seen references to using a thin mixture of wood glue, and that seems
like a decent way to go. For anyone who has used that, how thin did you
make it? Maybe a 1:2 ratio of water to glue?
Any other methods?
These days I'd run some masking tape on the flat surfaces to protect
them and then apply several coats of dewaxed shellac.
Allow a couple of weeks to dry, then apply primer.
I've not had any problems with it sticking and I just run a finger down the
edge pushing it in as I go and cleaning the excess with a paper towel. This
leaves a slight texture and if you want a dead flat edge with crisp corners
then drywall compound put on with a putty knife is a better way to go.
FWIW, I bought a similar shelf several months ago. Upon attempting to
paint the "bare" wood, the paint didn't take like it would on bare wood.
There might be a finish of some sort on the shelves that take care of
your problem (or cause some later.)
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Aye, I did notice that the top/bottom of the shelves were a lot smoother
than I expect from particle board. I think I'll Q-tip a dab of paint on the
end before I leave this morning and see what it looks like later.
Why bother sealing edges?
The whole panel is made that way.
The whole panel will absorb water like a wet sponge.
I do a lot of boat woodwork these days.
Edges do have more pores to work with.
But particle board?
I have eight of those shelf units now.
I sprayed first half with sanding sealer.
They are in a lot better shape than the newer bare ones.
If you use water based glue. what will happen when the shelves get wet?
Kilz should work well for what they are..
The same thing that happens to a house painted with "water based paint"
when it rains? Like, not much?
There's a difference between "waterborne" and "water soluble when cured".
Sure, white glue softens when it gets wet, but Titebond III doesn't.
And next time you use some urea-formaldehyde, toss the cured lump that's
always left over in a jar of water and put it on a shelf and a year
later see if it's softened any.
Several years ago, I made closet shelves out of 3/4" particle board. To
smooth out the edges I used dry wall compound for a filler. Then I painted
They are still as good as ever. Dry wall compound is cheap dries pretty fast
and is easy to sand.
Near as I can tell, it goes by the generic name of edging or edge
banding. I have no experience with it, but plan to try it if I cut
some vaneered particle board and need to cover the exposed raw edges.
On Sat, 29 May 2010 10:45:19 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
The "iron on" stuff sometimes works, but more often comes off before
you want it to. I often use the "pound in" type "T" molding to edge
particle board. Just cut a saw kerf doun the middle and knock the
plastic molding in.
Carefully. Run the edge down across the table saw. Or, run edge in on a
router table with a slot cutting bit mounted. Or, stretch a biscuit jointer
to it's limits by running it along the edge. Or, run a hand held router
along the edge (router base flat on face of board.
I'd use either of the router options. As would sellers of T-Molding.
On Fri, 28 May 2010 20:39:07 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
Depends on the application. I have filled edges with joint compound
before sealing with a shellac primer. I guess a shop-made wood filler
will work too, but less water the better--you centainly dont want the
particle board to swell near the edges.
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