My cheap router table, adapted from a circular saw inversion table, has a switch shut-off bar that runs the full length of the table, one side, and pushes on the rocker switch. It seems to be a good idea, and is better than a small buried, under the table, switch but I am not sure how readily accesible it would be in event of a mishap.
It may be easier to hit after dropping to the floor after scanning for flying parts, though....LOL
Maybe stick to valid topics?
.
I have dealt with many three phase and single phase dynamic braking circuits, mostly in the 1-5 hp range and the number of phases on the motor makes no difference, for braking ability.
The three phase braking circuits are more costly due to more contacts needed to switch the load to the brake circuits. A simple SPDT switch will do for a single phase saw.
The units I dealt with in 2000 ampere tapchangers typically used DC injection (some were friction and some regenerative) and were set to time out and allow the mechanism to coast onto a "top dead centre" position ready for the next cycle. This could be made to stop "on the spot" if adjusted this way but gave drift back to the brake initiating cam problems, at times so the coast in was necessary. This would not be desirable to stop a machine for a human usage.
"Lobby Dosser" wrote
Have you ever seen the extension cord type device that is sold for tools without magnetic starters to guard against exactly the thing you just mentioned?
If not, or for those unaware, it is a section of cord with a box with a brain inline that allows a tool with a regular mechanical switch to operate normally, until the power to the tool is interupted, either by the plug getting bumped, the main power cutting out, or a tripped breaker or fault protector. At that point, even if the power is out only for an instant, the tool will not be given power back by the brain box, until a reset button on the brain it pressed.
Not nearly as expensive as magnetic starters, easy to use, and give another layer of safety. Plus, it satisfies the requirements that may apply to a shop that is inspected by OSHA or insurance inspectors. Some products are GFCI's that require pressing the reset button before it will come back on after power is interupted, and some only mimic a magnetic starter. Seems as though it was in the mid 30 dollar price range, when I looked at them a couple years ago.
It keeps you paying attention to what you're doing.
Dina is a guardless, gaping, disconnect-free gal, too. I guess I'll be the first here to try out Grizz' G0715.
Wow, Captian PKB speaks. BTW, Is this supposed to make sense in this thread?
I don't know. Why did you bring up drugs and attempt to roll the topic?
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 23:26:09 -0400, "Josepi" wrote: Maybe stick to valid topics?
You don't know if you're trying to make sense? Well, I guess that says it all. You are nothing but a troll.
Maybe because I'm truing to figure out if you're on drugs or just stupid. I've come to the realization that the choices aren't exclusive.
Maybe you can find someone else who will talk to you now. You're sure limiting your possibilities quickly.
Would that be a red Facel Vega?
Thanks, good to know and I'll google it as soon as I can think of what to search for.
Some things you get to know when to walk away and know when to run just by sound alone. I know the sound of a blank coming off a lathe chuck, or the sound of a bowl about to shatter. Left hand hits the switch while diving out of the line of fire!
Ya right.
Understood, but I think the OP is talking about the Vega tablesaw fence:
If you would have used Doug's killfilter list you would have killfiltered me before I posted at all. Obviously you don't follow orders well.
Now run along and play with the other OCD boys. Maybe they can tolerate your nonsense.
Maybe because I'm truing to figure out if you're on drugs or just stupid. I've come to the realization that the choices aren't exclusive.
Maybe you can find someone else who will talk to you now. You're sure limiting your possibilities quickly.
I measured the distance from the fence to the blade for OK cuts when I had a Craftsman TS and stock fence but stoped doing that when I added a Jet Exacta fence. My new, 11 years ago, cabinet saw has the larger version of that fence. I use premium quality blades and have them checked for flat every time I have them resharpened.
A problem that can occour with any method of measuring is that if a blade becomes "non-flat" measuring fromt the fence tot a tooth on the blade will yield inconsistant results. This will throw off the accuracy of the built in system on the Biese fence also. While the fence may be accurate at a given point a slightly warped blade that throw all of that out the window. Measuring from the blade to the fence will not improve that situation.
Think kerf blades seem to exagerate the problem as they are less likely to stay flat.
I on occasion I will make a rip cut, measure the result, and verify the cursor setting on the fence.
I had a Vega, they were inherently flawed. I personally replaced the short block in my garage and had the head reworked because a piston broke. Twenty something thousand miles later I would drive into a gas station and asked the attentant to fill the oil and check the gas. Having replaced the short block myself, oil changes were as routine as filling the vehicle with gas, not an issue of getting it done every 3K and properly. Over heating was a problem with most all of them. They did not do well in city traffic. My Vega did pretty good until I moved to a city with daily traffic conjestion.
It was a very long time before GM could build a reliable 4 banger.
Chevy LUV pick-ups were pretty good vehicles with decent engines. And might I add, Isuzu built that truck for Cheverolet.
Yeah no kidding... I dont know what happened there.
Nevahoiduvit, neither.
"Extension-cord-with-magnetic-starter-built-in", perhaps? ;O
"inline mag starter" maybe?
I found this brand, but I think they are all GFCI's, too. I have found that using a GFCI on top of a GFCI protected like can sometimes lead to excessive false resets.
I will keep looking for a little while, but there is one type. Just find a dealer and you are all set.
"Lobby Dosser" wrote
Oh, I think I would stick with the GFCE with a manual reset, for this price.
found this brand, but I think they are all GFCI's, too. I have found that using a GFCI on top of a GFCI protected like can sometimes lead to excessive false resets.
I will keep looking for a little while, but there is one type. Just find a dealer and you are all set.
I forgot the link the first time.
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