I had a Vega, they were inherently flawed. I personally replaced the short
block in my garage and had the head reworked because a piston broke. Twenty
something thousand miles later I would drive into a gas station and asked
the attentant to fill the oil and check the gas. Having replaced the short
block myself, oil changes were as routine as filling the vehicle with gas,
not an issue of getting it done every 3K and properly. Over heating was a
problem with most all of them. They did not do well in city traffic. My
Vega did pretty good until I moved to a city with daily traffic conjestion.
It was a very long time before GM could build a reliable 4 banger.
Chevy LUV pick-ups were pretty good vehicles with decent engines. And might
I add, Isuzu built that truck for Cheverolet.
It will go to the same place, every time. That is what is necessary.
Repeatability, and the stremgth to resist a moderated amount of side
If you are afraid it moves while you cut, your table alignment or technique
You should not have to put enough pressure on the fence while making a cut
to move the fence.
Re-read that last sentance again, and believe it. It is true.
The aluminum fence attaches at two locations along the base unit.
Additionally the fences are an "L" shape so that you can remove it and
reinstall it on the base unit for cutting thinner stock more easily.
IIRC the Unifence had been around about as long if not longer as the
Beisemeyer, 20+ years. There have been no accuracy issues with the design.
I first considered getting a unifence 17 years ago.
I decided on the unifence years ago so I could add this to it and have
the best of both worlds, with a bit of added versatility neither it, nor
a Beis, have inherently:
One of the things I don't like about the uni-fence is that it doesn't
lock at the back ... this makes using hold downs with any useful degree
of downward pressure a non-starter.
That said, I too have my own built-in set of faults, but together we
manage to cope and make $awdust ... :)
Your copy and paster seems to be bouncing. I believe you meant:
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
Some years ago, the federal government, in its infinite wisdom, and all the
while thinking of the children, mandated that washing machines come to a
complete stop in just a few seconds (like three).
It shouldn't be hard to transfer that technology to table saws.
Dont count on it. I experimented with this several years ago using a
canvas/leather work glove. The blade left a clean kerf. There was the
notion that if you used gloves with a TS the blade could catch the glove and
pull your hand in. I do not recoment using a glove BTY but cloth and
leather cut much more easily than wood.
They did in the EU and then found out that the mandated brake wouldn't
stop a dado in the specified time, so their solution was to require that
the shaft be too short to accommodate a dado. Be careful what you wish for.
My Hitachi has a brake. Last shop I worked in (that I used a tablesaw),
there was a rule that when you turned it off, you cranked the blade down
below table height. Not always possible but could do so most of the time.
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