Re: Unisaw Question(s)

[Jamie Norwood]

jsm wrote:

> >>I have restored a little-used UNISAW that was manufactured in the early >>60s'. I've put on new fence as well as a 3 hp Baldor motor. The Baldor >>sticks out about 6" past the edge of the cabinet which means I can only tilt >>the blade ~ 15 degrees. Is there any solution to this problem other than >>getting out my jig saw and cutting a larger hole in the side of the case >> > >Solution 1) Find an older 3/4 to 1 horse >repulsion/induction motor. > >Solution 2) Read this article. Pay close attention the >last portion more than the first. > >>>and if I do that, will the 'motor shroud' for the newer Unisaws cover the >>opening completely? >> > >I would suspect so onna 'count of the cover was made for a 3 >horse saw. > >>Also - is there an efficient way to dust collect from this machine other >>than hanging a shroud (from the ceiling) over the blade area? >> > >Remove the dust door. Make a new dust door from MDF and fit >it with a hose. Use rare earth magnets to keep it all in >place. > >The real crux of the biscuit is getting up close to the >blade with your collector hose. You can jury rig this by >attaching an inlet to the chip deflector but there's a wee >bit of injineering to be done to make it usable at all angle >settings. Word on the street is there's a Nobel available >for the first guy to do it and a Pulitzer for the guy that >does the write up. > >Also, you can port the saw through the big boxy motor cover. > >UA100 >

[jsm]

Thanks for the good ideas. I'll check out the size of the motor shroud. Changing the motor is not an option now that I'm used to the 3hp.

Steve

[John Galea]

Excellent choice!

1. In one box you get the saw itself;
2. the table saw iron extensions. 3. a third one contains the Unifence

[Unisaw A100]

I'm happy to hear this. Leaves the vintage repulsion/inductions with one less person trying to rub their nose oils on them.

UA100, who does have a spare bullet end motor on hand

*just in case*...

[Mike Hide]

It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .

I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.

On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct piece and the base hole

I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.

Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works quite well.

Almost forgot, the dust door at the front was replaced with a solid ply door.

-- mike hide

[Mike Hide]

It's a bit of a bugger to get it equipped for DC .

I cut a 16"*4" hole in the bottom of the base on the RHS and fitted a standard sheet metal reqister piece [from 4" duct to 16"*4"from Home depot].Attached was a 4" flexible duct to the DC system.

On the inside of the base I made two ply ramps that angled down to the exit described above .So any dust slides down the ramps and into the exit .I did two because a single one is too big to fit inside the base ,I sealed any gap between the two with duct tape as I did with the intersection of the duct piece and the base hole

I sealed the semicircular hole at the front which houses the blade height adjustment with shop rags because at times it needs to be avaiable so the blade can be angled . where the top attaches to the base the holes there were sealed with"STUFF" the foaming sealant that hardens.

Finally I caulked where the base meets the shop floor....all in all it works quite well

-- mike hide

[jsm]

Thanks Mike - that is a great idea. I may have to rethink this thing again before I attack it. Like you, I have sealed the semi-circular hole for the blade tilt-track as well as around the table edges and around the base. I've put a piece of thin ply on the inside of the vent door. I'm going over to Rockwell tomorrow to check out their motor shroud. You are right. It is a bugger to DC.

Steve

[Unisaw A100]

Mind picking me up a list of parts and bringing them back to the future with you?

UA100, working on a "Go Back In Time" machine...

[jsm]

OK...DELTA ...feel better?

[Unisaw A100]

yes

UA100

[Mike Hide]

The standard new motor shroud fits fine , thats the one I used, just make sure when you fit it that the motor is fully angled .

By the way, when I made enquiries to Delta's home office they kindly sent me free a copy of the manual for the saw....mjh