Return the door to the borg and order the right one. You can pretty much custom order everything, generally takes about 2 weeks.
Stud to stud and header to floor measurents are the rough opening which is what you'll need to get the right one.
-Brian
Brian's advice is decent, but it almost sounds like you could set the rough-in to what is required. The paperwork somewhere should indicate the rough-in required for the door. Failing that, google is always good for that sort of thing. I wish I could state what you need, but it's best to get it from the "horses mouth" so to speak, because there are a couple of different ways of looking at such things.
Here are a couple links to get you started: There are lots of them on google.
HTH,
Pop
I 've attempted to install a 48" x 80" double prehung door (made by Masonite, from Home Depot) into a pre-framed entry way in my house, and it's turned out to not be as easy as I thought. When I bought the house, the door way was simply finished with dry wall. I started by pulling off the dry wall from the inside, to expose the 2x4's all around the inside of the door way. After pulling off the dry wall, the exact width of the doorway is
48". I figured since it was 48", then I needed a 48" x 80" prehung door, which they sold at HD. Little did I realize, that 48" was the interior measurement of the prehung door frame and that the width from stud to study would need to be an inch or two more. What's the right way to proceed on this? Should I even think about trying to pull out one of the 2x4s on one of the sides to give me an extra 1.5" - 2" or so? Is there another size of a prehung doors that would better fit my dimensions? Or do I just need to hire a carpenter to build a custom frame and doors? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.Steve
Just knock out the studs on one side of the door, install a new header and replace the 2x4s on that side, but 2 inches further. Why is this a problem?
YES, you ALWAYS measure the INSIDE of the frame.
The advice so far is flawed, just reframe the opening to the spec's for that door. It's right on the door somewhere. If you go and special order a door it will cost you twice as much. Tearing out a few 2x4 is a few dollars. If you don't know what your doing have a pro do it. For all you know you are dealing with a bearing wall and if it's not done right it could cost you thousands in the end. Do you know what a jack stud and cripple stud are?? If not then you should not be doing this project, PERIOD !!!!
Rich
Is it a bearing wall? He didn't mention anything that would let you determine that for sure, but a drywalled opening is usually a pass through between rooms and frequently is in bearing walls.
Just knock out the studs...? When do you think it would be a good time to tell the guy about determining if it is a bearing wall and if so, jacking up the structure above before he knocks anything out?
Inside of the framed opening.
To the OP - get a new door like someone else said. It'll save you a lot of headaches you don't need. Give the guy you order it from, the height and width of the framed opening, and the thcikness of the wall. If you can get it as a split-jamb unit, you'll find it faster but it may not match your existing trim.
RI am the OP and definitely a newbie. I would not attempt to tear out any 2x4's and reframe by myself. I don't know if it's a load bearing wall...so my skill level is pretty obvious. If I can order a prehung door that fits my specs, even if it costs more, I will do that. If the prehung door fits, I do know enough to install it. Thanks for the advice.
Steve
RicodJour wrote:
So your advice is to have an obvious newbie "just reframe the opening" instead of ordering a door...? Then you scare the dude with "could cost you thousands" if he doesn't know what a jack stud is??
WTF is wrong with just ordering a pre-hung sized to fit? I AM a pro and I wouldn't reframe for that. Why mess with the drywall and everything else. You must not value your time at all.
R
If it's a non-bearing wall, pull the 1-1/2" trimmers and replace with
1/2" ply on each side. You need 50" rough.but, you mentioned entryway door, so it's likely load bearing. Easiest way is to custom order a door. won't be cheap, but then are in position to properly remove wall finish (interior and exterior) and then replace it if you reframe the opening?
It was my understanding he had taken out the drywall already. But when I reread the post it would be easier and probably less money for him to reorder the door to the existing rough opening. You are right RicodJour.
Rich
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