RE: T/S Inertia

[Jack Stein]

This is what is dangerous, imo.

I know that if I don't put some kind of guard in place I'm going

This part I don't think so. I think the blade guards promote taking the "higher brain out of the loop".

couldn't find the video of the one I saw on TV a few years ago, those guys made this stuff look safe...

Anyway, I don't use guards, my saw didn't come with one, and if it did, I'd remove it. Knowing my saw can cut off my hand in an instant if I'm not careful keeps my brain in gear. If I was so worried about it and thought I couldn't get by w/o a guard, I'd buy a saw stop, still wouldn't fuss with a guard. The only caveat I have is age. As you get older, eyes are worse, reactions are worse, and brain goes out of the loop much easier than it did in the past. So far, knowing this has made me more careful than ever, but saw stop is looking more interesting as I the years add up...

[Leon]

Having chopped half my thumb off after cutting dado's and after turning the saw off, the safe procedure for me is to always keep my focus on the blade if you are close enought to touch it until it comes to a complete stop.

Snip

Agreed, I have used a guard and finally took it off after it cause me to get hurt but not badly many years before chopping my thumb. Small pieces can get caught in the guard, get trapped, and shoot out like a bullet. Reguardless of what safety measures you take, eventually you are going to get hurt one way or another. It's just a risk you take. And NEVER assume you will not get hurt because of some short sighted notion that you know all the safety rules, safety rules don't cover half of what could happen.

[Leon]

;~) Well I am not going to lower the blade when I turn the saw off but will for the sake of protecting the fence or miter gage or any thing else from damaging the blade if I finished using the saw.

BUT now I don't do any thing around the blade until I watch it come to a complete stop.

During cutting operations I have never been hurt by not using a guard. I have been hurt 3 times when using a guard. this is absolutely not to say however that I will not be hurt in the future by not using a guard.

IIRC there was an Italian manufacutrer that built a saw that would drop the blade below the surface automatically when you turned the motor off. IIRC you had to raise a lever to reposition the blade and turn the saw back on. Unplug the saw to make height adjustments.

[krw]

Oh, that makes perfect sense.

[krw]

That's why I'm surprised higher end table saws don't use dynamic braking. The controller is a lot more complicated (expensive) than a slider's. It doesn't seem like much of a stretch to add a couple of contacts to it.

[Steve Turner]

The fence is an extruded aluminum channel that attaches to the carrier with bolts secured by large wing nuts. By simply loosening the wing nuts you can adjust the fence towards you or away from you. This is very handy when you need to cross-cut something with the miter gauge; slide the fence towards you so that the far end is in front of the blade (prevents the cutoff from being trapped between the fence and the blade), use the fence scale to set the cutoff distance, register the end of the workpiece against the fence, then push through the blade with the miter gauge.

More clearer?

[krw]

Much better. Thanks.

Sounds like it's a bitch keep aligned.

[Max]

Not mine. I check it before any significant project and It very rarely needs any adjusting. Why would it?

Max

[krw]

Aluminum. Wingnuts. Sliding. All these things scream "alignment" to me.

[Puckdropper]

" [e-mail]" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

As a side benefit, you can put the generated energy back in the grid and recoup some of the electric cost of running the saw. *grin*

Puckdropper

[Morgans]

wrote

Not really. The aluminum part that moves is up against the heavy casting that is the part that securely locks to the saw. Once you have the casting set, the aluminum repeats accurately (it is metal on metal with nothing to let it become inaccurate) when it is tightened against the casting.

I usually keep mine accuratly adjusted to under a 32nd of an inch, and it stays there for a long period of time. It takes something hitting it really hard to knock it out of adjustment.

I don't understand people that get out a tape measure to check their setting for every single cut. I set up my machine and scale to cut what I set it on, and go to town. If I really need a super accurate cut, I check the setting with a trial cut on a scrap. It is nearly always what I had the scale set on.

[Max]

What he said but 1/32 of an inch is not close enough for me. Tape measure? ACK! I use a dial gauge *very* rarely but I have a rule that's marked in 64ths and I expect the fence to be *on the money*.

Max

[Josepi]

The cost of the dual register meter would break even in how many decades? LOL

Puckdropper

" [e-mail]" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

[Puckdropper]

"Morgans" wrote in news:C528o.2097$ [e-mail]:

*snip*

I don't trust my fence indicator. I had it set correctly once, but as the saw got moved around, the rails (where the indicator is) on the saw moved as well. It's so much easier to get the tape out and adjust the fence than to try to keep the indicator reading true.

Puckdropper

[krw]

I've never trusted the fence indicator. I put a Wixey gauge on mine and it seems to be pretty good. Once a session I zero it against the blade and all seems to be well.

[krw]

If the "heavy casting" only connects at the front and doesn't continue to the back, there is room for error. Beisemeyer is one piece so there is nothing to get whacked out, other then the pair adjustment set screws. They're easily adjusted and really don't take much abuse anyway.

[krw]

The meter is free. Unless there is something intentionally installed in the meter, all will run backwards if the energy goes the other way. The hardware needed to sync to the line, OTOH,...

[Steve Turner]

You're speaking about that which you know not. My Unisaw has a Unifence and it doesn't get any more "whacked out" than a Biesemeyer. And yes, I've used a Biesemeyer (which you misspelled, btw) many times; my father and my buddy both have one.

[krw]

That's why I'm asking, dummy.

That's not what I've been told before and primarily why I went with the

*B*I*E*S*E*M*E*Y*E*R* instead of the *U*N*I*F*E*N*C*E*.

Sorry, my speelczecher doesn't do trademarks. Geez, what a maroon!

[Lew Hodgett]

---------------------------------- My previous post INCORRECTLY described "Regenerative braking" as "Dynamic braking".

Dynamic braking still requires a set of interlocked contactors which very much look like a reversing motor starter which is used to apply a DC voltage to the motor windings.

You need a DC power supply and a time delay relay to accomplish dynamic braking.

Take your choice, a motor mounted disc brake, a regenerative braking or a dynamic braking approach.

All are expensive, have lots of control hardware and are used on 3 phase motors.

It is totally cost prohibitive for a single phase motor.

Lew