Recommend work bench thickness

What is the minimum recommended bench top thickness when using bench-dogs or other types of hold-fasts?

I'm replacing the top of my work table with some 1.25 inch thick butcher block. I'd like to add some 3/4 inch holes for hold fasts.

Reply to
Clark Moss
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Thickness doesn't matter a whole lot for bench dogs. A Black and Decker Workmate has a 3/4" thick top and they work fine. Where you might have a problem is with the holdfasts--1.25 is a bit thin for them.. Try them and see if they hold, if they don't then fasten a block underneath and drill it through to increase the thickness.

You might find this of interest:

Reply to
J. Clarke

My Festool Work table uses 3/4" MDF and it works fine. Mostly it will depend on what size and kind of dogs you intend to use. Might be less expensive to get a new type of hold down than to go thick for a surface.

Reply to
Leon

That is plenty thick. I use 3/4" because it is what I had but would prefer 1".

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

... not 3/4 inch butcher block, I bet ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

No, plywood. If was a home made drafting table where I worked many years ago. When the didn't want it any more I converted it to a workbench. Free is a good price.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

OP is probably OK with 1 1/4 butcher block - 1 3/4 is OK too ...

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John T.

Reply to
hubops

Especially considering the butcher block was free.

Reply to
Clark Moss

Thank you all for the feedback. This is encouraging and makes me excited to start this project. My grandpa passed 20+ years ago. I got three slabs of butcher block from his shop last winter, with no plans in mind. This idea started kicking around last week when I realized the three slabs are the perfect size.

Reply to
Clark Moss

or other types of hold-fasts?

block. I'd like to add some 3/4 inch holes for hold fasts.

Free butcher block? Great I would think about using it also. BUT you wil l have the end grain up, which means any spills are going right down into t he top. I much prefer the Rubo style of 2.75 to 3.5 inches. You get the w eight to provide a lot more stability to your bench, assuming you put reaso nable legs on it.

What you could do is use the butcher block and top it with a second top of about 1.5" thick with the side grain up. Two advantages, 1) its a whole lo t easier to handle than a 3" solid top and 2) you do not have the end grain wicking up anything that drop on it.

Reply to
Dr. Deb

Not necessarily:

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Reply to
Spalted Walt

That was my first thought also - until I looked up butcher block :

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" two basic styles of butcher block: end grain and edge grain:

John T.

Reply to
hubops

Clark Moss on Sun, 21 Oct 2018 19:29:57 -0700 (PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:

Free is a very good price.

Now, how much are you spending to get it home, set up, stable .... "asking for a friend".*

*I snagged two solid core doors. two inches thick. Great bench. But after the last re-organization, I need to make some serious legs for the one. Before, when I "pushed" on it, I was pushing the bench against the wall. Now I'm not, and it "wiggles". One more thing ...

tschus pyotr

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

The same holds for cutting boards. They say end grain is better because the knife "opens" the grain instead of trying to cut through. Your knives stay sharpen longer.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I believe a workbench should be solid and massive. Heavy so it does not move when you plane boards. My bench is about 2' x 8' and 2.5" thick. Red oak. It doesn't move. I wish I had made it an inch thicker.

Reply to
russellseaton1

sandbags on the legs.

Mine is 2.25" thick hard maple (28"x84"), but I used alder for the 16/4 legs, and that's a bit lighter weight. So, the bottom shelf holds a #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #606, #607 and #608, to add a bit of mass to the bench :-)

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Luckily it's edge grain butcher block. It's pine or fir, so it's gong to get beat up quick. But again... Free, and in better shape than the maple 1x8s on there now. Next I need to research dog hole spacing and how many you really need. I'm sure that depends on the project.

Reply to
Clark Moss

Shannon Rogers' prospective. YMMV...

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Reply to
Spalted Walt

I believe a workbench should contain drawers filled with tools. My workbench top is 1.5" solid construction grade fir. You'd need a fork lift to move it.

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Reply to
Jack

I built my bench in 1975 and it has a fir butcher block top I made out of construction grade 2x4's ripped in half and glued up. I figured the top would get beat up and would be easily and cheaply replaced or sanded down. After 43 years of use and abuse, I never needed to replace it, or sand it down.

All the wear and tear (not all that much considering it's cheap softwood) is a romantic reminder of the 43 years of hard work spent together and I wouldn't remotely consider replacing or removing it's hard earned patina.

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Reply to
Jack

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