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Recommend work bench thickness

Fantastic! Covers all the bases. I don't have a vise right now and he covers hole placement without a vise. Great video!

Reply to
Clark Moss
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Great looking bench! Mine is more of an outfeed table/work bench island. I'll post before and after pictures soon.

Reply to
Clark Moss

Here's the BEFORE picture:

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Here's the AFTER picture:

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Reply to
Clark Moss

Looks nice. Is that used as an outfeed for the table saw? Does the extra height screw that up?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Thanks! Yes, it's the outfeed. The drop was a little too much before. Now it's a half inch. So far it feels good.

Reply to
Clark Moss

Nice! I'm surprised at the direction of the boards.

Reply to
krw

I'm hoping that doesn't impact strength. These boards were glued up over 20 years ago... I had three panels and only needed to cut 1/2 inch or so off every side to get them all to fit.

Reply to
Clark Moss

Strength shouldn't be an issue, unless working on an elephant. At any rate, it will be stronger in this orientation.

On a side note, I had the exact same table saw fence on my saw. Great upgrade was to a Delta Fence I got on sale at Low's for $150.

Reply to
Jack

Yeah, that has a nice patina. Easy to do if you have 40+ years.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

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er 20 years ago... I had three panels and only needed to cut 1/2 inch or s o off every side to get them all to fit.

Thanks, Jack, i'll look that up. The table saw was also handed down from G randpa. He bought it new somewhere between '60-'62. It's in fantastic sha pe! The only downside is ALL of the safety guards etc. are long gone. The top end of the fence has a tendency to move slightly when being locked dow n. I check the alignment every time I move the damn thing. I didn't think I could buy a new fence for a 50+ year old machine, and original parts are way out of my price range (if you can find them). Time for a new fence!

Reply to
Clark Moss

iginal parts are way out of my price range (if you can find them). Time for a new fence!

I suspect you could buy a new fence to fit the table saw very easily. Tabl e saws have not changed much at all in about 50 years. The same parts that fit them 50 years ago still fit them today. I have a 25 year old Delta Co ntractor saw. I put a Biesemeyer fence on it 25 years ago. Today I could buy a Biesemeyer fence and install it the same. Nothing has changed in 25 years. And I'm pretty sure nothing has changed in 50 years either. The or iginal Delta Unisaw from 1930 could fit a brand new Biesemeyer fence today. Or Delta's new table saw fence they invented 20 years ago. Unifence? Or any of the other new table saw fences. They all fit all old saws.

Reply to
russellseaton1

My saw is about 10 years older than yours, and it has no safety equipment. Personally, I think most of that safety crap is dangerous...

Anyway, I looked up the fence at Lowe's and it's now $219. It is night and day from the lame fence that came with our saws. First it moves easily and always locks down square, but the best thing is you can just lift it off and on.

Installing it on my saw was not too difficult. The screws bolting it to the saw were metric, and I just replaced them. Pretty sure I used the screws from the original fence. I bolted one hole right to the fence, and it was perfect height, amazing since the original was so dang old. I had to drill a new hole in the fence to match threaded hole in the saw table. That wasn't hard, but measuring had to be accurate. The rear fence is not really needed at all, as all the locking is done from the front.

You will not be disappointed with this fence, it's a good upgrade worth every penny.

Reply to
Jack

The old saw has a different hole pattern, although the height is perfect. Also the threaded holes in the table are not metric. I had to drill one new hole in the fence, and counter sink the holes in the fence to use the original fence screws. Can't recall if I used the old screws or bought new sae screws, but in general you are right, the fence fit almost perfectly.

Reply to
Jack

I take it you don't have a large sled...or will you be routing slots?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

What is the minimum recommended bench top thickness when using bench-dogs or other types of hold-fasts?

I'm replacing the top of my work table with some 1.25 inch thick butcher block. I'd like to add some 3/4 inch holes for hold fasts.

****************** For well supported steel tops 1/4 inch works very nicely.

For plank and pin wood tops I'd say 2 inches. Again well supported.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

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