I just bought a used powermatic 63 saw and want do clean up the trunions
and inside of the saw. The directions say to take the table off to get
access to the saw. It also says that the miter slots are aligned at the
factory but it doesnt say how to realign them after putting the table back
on. I have a couple of questions. first if is it true that you should take
off the table from the cabinet. and two, if so what are the procedures for
realigning the miter slots. Thanks
After replacing the tablesaw top, you will need to reset the alignment
between the miter slot and the blade. See the last photos on
A dial indicator is a godsend in doing this -- if you don't have one, it is
worth the expense. I have a cheapie from Grizzly.com, which is accurate
enough for this. And the process will work just fine using a sawblade as
opposed to the $$ Masterplate.
Google the words TS Aligner. Download the instruction
booklet. Read it over. Decide whether or not that you'd
like to own the TS Aligner (it is worth the expense/it's not
as big a "one trick pony" as some of the other devices) or
figure out how you'd like to go about it without the TS
Aligner, i.e., a wad of boogers, some dental floss, a
popsicle stick and so on. The point is, Al Gore has seen to
it that the information is out there and he brings it to us
via the All Great and Powerful Google.
By the way, you didn't follow protocol on this one and let
us know whatcha paid for the No. 63.
Well, I have to admit I don't know the 63 well but w/ the 66 unless it's
<really> crapped up badly you can clean it adequately w/o removing the
top (altho it's a little awkward granted). There just may not be
sufficient clearance w/ the 63, but I'd sure be for looking around a
little first just to save some time/effort....<unless> of course, I just
wanted to disassemble the saw and clean it up, etc., just for the fun of
it--which is, of course, not all that bad of a way to spend a day or so
if you're in to that sort of thing... :)
As the other poster said, what you need is just a dial indicator and a
magnetic base. I'm with the contingent that thinks TS Aligner is a way
overpriced solution looking for a problem...
I agree to a point about the dial and base solution. it would be okay
for measuring the height of the blade and maybe one or two other
things, however, to measure the distance from slot to blade and slot
to fence, the indicator must move position. Clearly the base and dial
won't work unless supplemented by something else.
The TS-Aligner Jr (yes, I own one) is also used for much more than
just the TS. I wouldn't hesitate to say there is not a better product
for WW purposes on the market.
Since I've only had the device a short while I won't yet comment on
it's cost effectiveness, although it has saved me money by being able
to identify a manufacturing error that otherwise might have escaped
I agree with Keith that downloading and reading the book is a good
idea, the techniques are good, basic approaches in a sensible
Do Tell Duane!
Please explain every detail of your solution. And, don't leave out the
part about measuring angles. Specifically, at $70, the TS-Aligner Jr.
Lite can measure angles between 45 and 90 degrees with a resolution of
0.056 degrees. That's a bit better than 4 minutes of arc. You can get
the same results "far less expensively"? I'm definitely interested and
I'm sure that others in the group are too.
Duane Bozarth wrote:
This dental floss idea has me wondering, are you flossing between
the blade and some reference? Or you doing something else totally
different that I may not even want to know about.
John, in Minnesota
I paid 450 with a few accessories. not the best deal around but its in good
shape except the wings are horribly alligned. They slope upward so its
going to take some effort to get it level.
Sorry for the basic question but on removing the table, the trunions are
attched to the table so I just leave them attached and lift the table out ?
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