I've got a lot of good responses for the saw blades and I think my
decision rests b/w the Forrest and the CMT. The decision will come
down to what many of you have brought up concerning the performance of
the blade. That being the set up of the saw. First off I have a newer
Delta contractor style with the after market motor pulleys and link
belt. I am very fastidious about keeping my tools tuned and it
includes my saw. Recently, on the advice of many people, I toed out my
Vega fence from being absolutley parallel to being out at the back of
the blade about the thickness of a business card. I ripped a couple of
boards and the cut is reasonable clean except for a few burn marks
(which is unacceptable). The burn marks are a result of having to
force the wood along the fence because it seems to want to travel avvay
from the fence on the outfeed side (as if the stock is staying parallel
to the blade in the kerf. Is the space on the outfeed side of the
fence the result of toeing it out? Is the fence toed out too much?
Any advice on further tune ups to really get the performance the
Forrest is capable? If not I will settle for the CMT.
Maybe try 1/2 (or less) the thickness of a business card? But I'd shoot
for dead-nuts parallel, myself. What blade are you using now? You'll
need more than one _good_ blade, especially when one of 'em is being
I believe Forrest recommends opening up the back of the fence when
necessary to compensate for poor equipment (blade runout, warped fence,
etc.). I believe my Woodworker II blade came with instructions for
setting up a saw for use with their blade. Check Forrest's web site for
More than likely your board or fence had some warp or twist. If you push it
straight ahead, it has no choice but to go straight, just as if you were
crosscutting with your miter gage. If you hold it against the fence all the
time, it moves away from the blade. If you adjust clearance for the fence
on the right, you'd best remember to correct when you move it left.
Place your fence square to the table and parallel to the blade, and no
other position. Any blade, high or low quality, has every other tooth
angled opposite the one next in line. That angling of the teeth allows
for any clearance needed when sawing your lumber.
Yes, your lumber was trying to follow the line of cut your blade was
creating/had created, and you were trying to force the lumber to follow
the fence line. That's why you had the burn marks.
I think I'll object to this statement. While this may be true of an ATB
blade, it is not true of all blades.
Consider flat-tooth rip, TCG, or hollow-ground blades or even ATB+R
combination blades. They all have something other than just
The blade is designed to cut a kerf wider than the blade body (either
due to "set" in a steel blade or else having carbide inserts). This
additional width is what keeps the blade body from rubbing against the
wood--not oppositely angled teeth.
Agreed. The centerpoint of the tips of every other tooth, on the
blades you mention, are off-set to one side of the plane of the blade
body, and the other teeth's centerpoints are off-set to the opposite
side of the plane of the blade body. In essence (the essence I was
trying to convey), they are as angled teeth are, and that off-set
allows for the same function as the angling of teeth, to cut for
clearance (so there is no burn) while cutting the board.
Position the fence square to the table and parallel to the blade, and
no other position.
Recently, on the advice of many people, I toed out my
Is the fence toed out too much?
Go back to parallel. The only reason to toe out is to keep the back side of
the blade from touching the wood between the fence and the blade. It only
agervates the situation as the blade hits the waste side on the back side of
the blade. Think about it.
This is a "Jerry Rig" to make a saw blade look like it cuts smoother at the
It is hard to keep your wood tracking against the fence because the wast is
hitting the back side of the blade. Probably a dangerous situation if you
are not using a splitter.
Well thanks for all the advice. I went with the Forrest blade and set
my fence back to parallel. If anything it is .002 toed out if at all
just to compensate for any runout etc... as Forrest recommends. So for
all is well.
PS I'm glad I got the Forrest.
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