Plastic lumber -- where do you buy it? FAQ

replying to dpb, John wrote: thats what I t5hough thanks again

replying to mkr5000, John wrote: thank you

replying to dpb, John wrote: I did and they would sell me some for , like 1/2x6inch 3.50 ft just though way to high

replying to mkr5000, John wrote: thank you

replying to Richard, John wrote: Ohio thank you

replying to Gordon Shumway, John wrote: thank you gordon

replying to mkr5000, David Wagner wrote: Did you ever find a source? Unfortunately nobody on this blog understood your question. I build adirondack chair from "Northdex" decking from Menards. You can cut, rip, and rout the edges, but be careful when screwing, it split easily. I'd like to find something better, like what is used on the finished polywood products. One by or five quarter would be ideal. I'm in Minnesota

replying to mkr5000, David Wagner wrote: Did you ever find a source? Unfortunately nobody on this blog understood your question. I build adirondack chair from "Northdex" decking from Menards. You can cut, rip, and rout the edges, but be careful when screwing, it split easily. I'd like to find something better, like what is used on the finished polywood products. One by or five quarter would be ideal. I'm in Minnesota

Please check out

The link to the lumber is not working though. Sounds interesting if we could see it.

I don't know where you live, but I have used this material before. I was able to purchase it at Lowes, but I have seen it at Home Depot.

One thing I used it for was to replace the sill on our patio doors. It was easy to cut and shape. We lived there nearly 10 years and it was as good as it was when I put it in.

Unless you have special requirements you make check your local Lowes or Home Depot.

Works just fine for me.

I've used the PVC boards to replace facia and the PVC brickmold to trim out replacement doors and windows. Works great and will never rot. First go around you can fill your nail holes with silicone caulk or just fill them and paint them. My window trim has been in place for ~ 10 years now and is a bit chalky to the touch. Next time we stain/paint I'll paint the PVC.

Neat trick I learned last year when I replaced a couple of large windows. This stuff is dense and if you use a CA "super glue" along with the activator, you can have miter joints (assuming you measure THREE times and cut once, that look like they were molded.

I used the 2P-10 stuff from FastCap (great product) but I suppose any will work equally well. I did a test run cutting the 45 degree miter on a 2' piece of scrap. Lined them up, pushed them together hand tight and held my breath for about 20 seconds. The bond was cured at that point. For giggle I tried to pull it apart. Forget it! I smacked one leg of it against a concrete sidewalk. . . TWICE and then it broke but, like any good Titebond glue joint, it didn't break at the joint. The PCV shattered about 3" out from the joint.

I can't say enough good things about PVC trim boards.

Well, silly me clicked where it says "click here" It comes up if you notice the side menu rather than follow the instructions.

Hover over the "Click Here" or "Keep Reading" button on the same row. They both link right back to

Bad website maintenance.

I use the CA glue on it, too, with great results. I friggin HATE the saw dust though. It stick to everything.

No lie! I look enough like the Pillsbury Dough Boy without the coating of "flour: ;)

I just pictured a fluffy donut with coconut sprinkles stuck to it. :~)

"I tried to think of the most harmless thing. Something that I loved from my childhood. Something that would never ever possibly destroy us. Mr. Stay-Puft."