Yeah that sander goes way back. I bought my first PC Speed Bloc in 1989 and
it pooped out last yrear. I bought another just like it. That sander is a
work horse. If you do not see a cloud of dust coming up from it, it needs
I really do not mind sanding. I used to hate it. Truly having the
equipment that gets the job done in a timely manner is key. I do not cut
corners on sanders and go with the ones that have stood the test of time.
I should clarify that I don't hate sanding or scraping, as long as the
project is a jewelry box or end table. <G>
Lately, most of my work has been large, so even with good equipment and
supplies, it seems to go on far too long.
Yes you have to have it just a hair higher on the outside.When I had
mine I just dialed it in and left it like that. It was maybe 1/64th if
that. These are great for widths that fit within the the width of the
belt. It is really a bit gimmicky to do wider widths. I always hand
sanded after for wider widths.
If at all possible I would sand separate panels at the max width, then
join them and hand sand out the rest of the way. Now that I have a 24"
wide belt I still use this approach. I did a 2" thick butcher block top
3' wide by 5' long. I did a buch of 8-10" wide glue-ups and sanded them
down to a standard thickness. Then I joined them into two 18" wides and
sanded those in the wide belt, then joined the two pieces and hand
If I had my choice, I would much rather have a 24" wide drum than an
18/36 open sided. Plus the open sides units are usually 1 1/2 hp and
the drums are 4 or 5hp.
I have never been able to get it perfectly parallel. So I make sure the
error is to having the outside a bit higher. Not a serious problem; you
just have to be sure not to sand something on the extreme outside, lower the
drum and then sand on the inside, because it is too much.
I'm not so much worried about the crown as I am the groove they talked
about. If you can adjust the open end so that it's 1/64" or even 1/32"
higher, then leave it there forever. That would probably be fine.
Chances are, I would never notice since it's the wide boards that would
tend to have this much error in thickness rather than places where
you're joining like table aprons or legs.
I just want to avoid having to ever adjust this setting much. To me,
having to do that would be like having to adjust your jointer knives
between every board.
My main goal for a drum sander is to reduce the amount of sanding time
I have. If I have to spend 15 minutes sanding a table top with the
ROS, that's not a big deal. If this machine saves me an hour on
sanding the top, I think it's worth it. Chances are, it would do a
better job sanding than I would.
Has anyone ever upgraded the motor on a 22/44? I'm not sure if I would
even need more than the 1.5.
Leave the "outside" dimension slightly higher(very slightly) than the
inside. You will never notice the difference unless you carefully use a
micrometer to measure the center differential. Using this method does indeed
eliminate any chance of a sanding "ridge" in the center.
I have been using a 22/24 on a RAS for about 20-22 years. I now own a 16/32
stand-alone and have not re-adjusted it since the original install 3 years
ago. Enough said. Enjoy, the Performax is a great tool.
It isn't really a groove, it is an unsanded area. If you are sanding
something 24" wide on a 16" machine that means 8" is unsanded on the
first pass. When you flip it for pass #2, you will get an unsanded
area again *IF* the drum is not dead level or is too low on the
You can but those dimensions are way too much. It would take bloody
forever to sand out on a panel of any size.
You want to set it as close to level as possible, just a *tiny* bit
higher outboard. Easy way to check is with something flat, smooth and
at least 16" wide - draw diagonal pencil marks across it and sand so
you are barely sanding...lets you see how much is being taken off each
side and you can adust the drum accordingly. When you can just barely
remove the pencil from the inboard side and almost from the outboard
you have it about right.
BTW, when sanding stuff materially wider than the drum it is a good
idea to support what is hanging out the end. Additionally, you can
apply up/down pressure as needed on what's hanging out should the drum
be out of whack.
OK, now I've seen posts suggesting, as above, to set the outboard end higher,
presumably to allow for sag. There have also been posts suggesting that the
outboard end should be set lower to combat flex.
Either the opposing posters have different sanders, or the rest of us haven't
a clue which is right.
I may have missed it, but has anyone quoted what Performax says? I don't own
one but our store does sell them so I'd like to know what to tell the
You may find this useful - I did.
When you initially align the sander, do it without any sandpaper installed
on either the drum or the table. You will need a good reference that has
parallel edges to get the setup done right - I used a 24" aluminum straight
edge from Lee Valley that I have. The tips about removing the spring and
making that mod really works - try it.
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