For those of you with teh 16/32 and 22/44 sanders, I have a question.
I read a fine woodworking article from a while back talking about the
16/32 and some other sanders. It says that for the open-ended sanders,
when you sand a wide board in two passes, you have to readjust the drum
so that it's no longer parallel with the table. That is, you have to
make the drum farther from the table at the open end than it is at the
closed end, thus creating an artificial crown in the board. The
article says that if you don't do this, you end up with a 1/32" groove
where open end of the drum is. Is this true? The article looks like
it's a number of years old. Did they fix this? I'd hate to readjust
the drum parallelness when switching between wide and narrow boards.
Great... I thinking of getting one, solved the electricity problem, and now
you bring this up. :~) I suppose that would be good to know. I wonder if
the article discover this situation or if the owners manual mentions this.
As an extra question, Does any one have the 10-20? I am seriously
considering that one also.
Which electricity problem?
I was planning on getting the 22/44 (after moving the shop now :-P ).
But after reading about this, I may have to spend the extra money and
get a closed-end sander. I'm not liking that idea though because it
means that I would just about have to double (or more) the price to get
one with the same 44" capacity. I *really* want to be able to sand
table tops. This is enough of an issue to make me compromise on the
width though. My shop time is really limited. And drum sanders are
already fussy without this thrown in.
The 16-32 and larger requires a 20 amp circuit. I thought I only had a
single 15 amp circuit in my garage until I checked the breaker box and
discovered the single 20 amp circuit for the washing machine. I was not
aware that that outlet was separate and 5 amp higher capacity.
I do not mind sanding the occasional large surface and most of my furniture
has panels around 18 inches wide. I mostly want the drum sander for sanding
small box parts and inlay. According to Performax the pieces being sanded
can be as short as 2-1/2" long.
Where have you seen a closed end sander with 44" capacity for only twice as
much money? Most that I have seen start in the 3 to 4 thousand dollar
Additionally , take a look at the Performax site and pull up the PDF manual.
IIRC there is an actual adjustment knob for making this adjustment after
loosening a few cap screws. This may only be a few minute adjustment.
For small parts, I'd take a serious look at building one yourself.
For short boards you really don't need a conveyor. Quite happy with
mine so far, though there's been a bump or two along the way. Save
quite a bit of money building it, and you can use a 220v motor to
solve your no longer existing electrical problem. But it's the sort
of thing that will pay for itself no matter how much you spend.
It's small, too small for me, but you might also take a look at the
Byrnes sander that I modeled a lot of mine on.
6 inch width, little over 1" max thickness. The one reservation I
have about recommending it would be that I emailed the guy about
custom building one with greater max thickness and got no reply. But
it seems like an excellent machine.
Yeah that might be a bit small. Thanks for reminding me about the home
built sanders. Actually IIRC ShopNotes recently had an issue covering
building your own and using the TS to power it. That would not work for me
since I am using a cabinet saw but I could probably have it run
independently with its own motor.
It's not a complicated machine. My experience:
The only thing I need to add is that the shaft decided it wanted to
move on me, 4 set screws be damned. I didn't file a flat for them as
I didn't think there was much of anything that would make the shaft
want to go side to side. And the set screws fouled up the shaft to
the point I can't get the bearings off it to file it now. I added in
a spacer between the drum and bearing and that keeps it from going in
the direction it kept wanting to go before. Oh, also had to lock
another nut against the cap nut on the height adjuster to keep it from
unthreading when lowering the table.
Some of my experience goes against a lot of the prevailing wisdom,
mainly the support of the table at the front and the motor mounting,
but those seem to work fine for everyone else.
Mine is still fairly new, but having read a lot of reviews I got the
impression that most problems people were having were caused by not
understanding how the machine needed to be set up, which isn't
difficult. My experience so far when working under 26" is that if its
set up correctly you dond have to change anything other then the angle
of the board when you feeed it in.
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 16:47:50 GMT, "Leon"
I think you need to do an economics evaluation.
First, how many >32" wide pieces are you ever going to sand? If it's
less than even two dozen over the course of maybe 20 years of
woodworking, how can you justify the huge machine?
Next, by your own admission, you have "really limited" shop time. Now
how many >32" pieces are you going to be sanding?
Finally, even that big, $10,000 Timesavers sander Norm has in The New
Yankee Workshop is only a 36" (and which, by the way, is almost
assuredly a 3-phase machine). Do you think you're going to be able to
find a sander with more capacity for significantly less money?
For the very few times you need that capacity, you'd be far better off
either renting time on a sander in a commercial shop (if possible) or
just subbing it out outright (The Hardwood Connection out in
Sycamore--west of town on 64 just past Peace Rd) has a widebelt sander
and would probably do it under those conditions).
Save your money and your space for things you'll use more often and
are less upfront dollars (and that won't take up space all out of
proportion to their use).
It's limited for now. My hope is that I'll be using these machines for
decades. That may be unrealistic. But I think it's a worthy goal.
You're right, I can't really justify it. I'm just worried about paying
$2000 (for example) for a 24" machine when I can pay $2500 for a 32"
machine. That may be unrealistic. There's a sweet spot somewhere I
haven't identified. I guess my goal is to get as much drum sander as I
can for $2500 or less. Once it goes over that price, I start getting
flak from the accountant. I still need to do a lot more research.
Originally, I had decided on the 22/44 since it would do 22" wide
boards just fine, and had a way to do the large boards when I may
occasionally need that. Only now there's (maybe) a price to be paid
for that extra feature. This has also got me thinking again about
motor size, dual drums, flat drum vs velcro, and all that stuff. For
about $1800, it looks like grizzly has one that's 23.5", but has two
drums and 5hp vs 1.5hp on the peformax. I have to wonder which machine
I would be happier with. It seems like you get a lot more with the
griz for the extra $500.
His machine is a wide belt sander. I'm looking for a drum sander,
mainly because of cost. And while I'd love to have a wide belt sander
like that one, it's a production machine. And that's really a case of
can't justify the cost. Besides, with a machine like that I start to
running out of subpanel and dust collector, even (or maybe especially)
if it were single phase.
You're right of course. Maybe I've become obsessive compulsive about
cry once. :-)
I seldom sand things that are so wide that I have to flip them.
Usually, I plane the boards, run them through the sander, glue them up,
and then touch
up with a random orbital sander to make up for any minor goofs in glue
On the rare occasions that I have done the "flip", I don't change the
table adjustment. It's a huge PITA to get that table level, so I'm not
going to touch that setting. I flip it and then
touch up with a ROS.
Keeping the open end a tad down (64th) seems to take care of the flex in the
cantilever design, producing uniform thickness pieces.
Perhaps the reason for suggesting the tip up is that it's a lot easier to
take away wood in the middle of nowhere than add it....
I agree with George. With the cantilever design the outside needs
to be slightly lower to account for a very small amount of flex in the
open ended design.
My 16/32 works great. This is a sander not a thicknesser. If you
don't try to sand to deep and to fast you will have very little clean
Everybody (including me) wants to hurry up and get finished with
the sanding because the finished project is almost ready and the
freakin' sanding is holding up the show when the truth is if you take
your time sanding the "show" will be better.
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