On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 16:09:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Sorry, I meant if the rust is through the porcelain/enamelware. You
would know because there would definitely be an edge where you can
catch your fingernail on it, or your skin would feel the edge.
Had a pan that did that, and OUCH, I felt it in my mouth a piece or
two, very tiny. In my case I tossed the pan lest anyone at home would
So if you use it, keep a watchful eye for future deterioration.
And Clare was right on the money.
On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 2:44:41 PM UTC-4, OFWW wrote:
at I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rus
ty pot takes
- err, I
No "lip', just a few rough, rust colored spots right where the steel
I found some some food-safe enamel paint, but it's temperature range
only goes to 200°.
Specs emailed from their customer service department:
-20° F if surface is not flexible and up to 200° F.
Even though the ideal water temp for coffee is between 195° and 200?
that is very hard to control in a percolator. Theoretically, only the
water under the basket base should reach the boiling point but of course,
that's right where the paint would be. (not to mention the flame under
the pot) Food safe or not, I don't want melted paint in my coffee.
You might want to google "torch enameling". The existing coating is
melted-on glass and apparently you can melt on more glass with a propane
torch. Whether it will bond to the metal and the existing glass I have
no idea but the stuff to do it is cheap and if there's no local supplier
you can get it on Amazon. I'd make sure I got all the rust off down to
bare metal first.
main ingredient is water in vinegar
water removes rust well too once oils and grease are removed
maybe the acids in vinegar increases the reaction time or it may
make the water penetrate better
might be improved ion exchange over just plain water
Acetic acid has a number of uses, including as precursor to PVA (which
is why PVA glues have a vinegar odor) and a component in Acetylsalicyclic acid
(ASA), AKA Aspirin.
Vinegar is very dilute Acetic acid.
I was a photographer for 50 years. Neither I nor anyone I ever met or heard
of used vinegar in photography. Acetic acid, yes; vinegar, no. The acid is
often used to stop the action of the developer which is basic.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 4:47:41 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
He probably meant "vinegar" in a generic sense, rather than household vineg
ar, per se.
Most medical "film" processing is all digital, today..... X-rays, CTs, MRI
s, etc. .... Probably similarly with regular photography. Digital makes
images more clear and sharp, as opposed to old style X-ray, etal, imaging a
nd processing. Zeroing in on the mass of a patient or area to be imaged,
via computerized "measuring", is much more efficient and exacting, than a t
ech's manual measuring & positioning, etc. Digital facilitates a real help
ful advantage, since one can send images across the world in an instant, vs
hand carrying sheets of negatives from office to office.
Soon after we retired, our "old style" (sheet film) liquid Developer & Fixe
r (vinegar) X-ray processing became obsolete. I'm not sure if film compan
ies even make available the hardcopy film, for those obsolete processors/pr
I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose
even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the
So that's really great also..
So go fix an old tool and enjoy it.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.