no experience with spanish cedar what are the traits
but what cedar i have used it seems very inflexible when completely
i think the most recent cedar was some dry western red cedar
have never tried bent laminations and i know steam allows amazing
bends but have to have a steam setup of course
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 1:40:15 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
btw, when I created a red cedar lamination, I soaked the 1/8" strips overni
ght, then gradually formed them to their new shape without using any binder
. I released the pieces from the form and after allowing them to dry, then
glued them up (using thickened epoxy) and clamped them in position. Overall
lamination was 10 layers with virtually no rebound effect after release.
On 5/31/2016 1:48 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
position. Overall lamination was 10 layers with virtually no rebound
effect after release.
I wonder if soaking in water helps any? My thought is wood bending
requires heat, not water. Steam is used because it gets the wood hot
w/o burning it. You can bend wood successfully with just a heat pipe,
although burning is a risk. Also, my thoughts are wood is fairly water
proof, and soaking, even thin strips, wouldn't penetrate much over
night. Soaking in boiling water would do wonders because it heats the
wood, elasticizing the "glue" that binds the wood fibers.
My experience with bending 1/8" strips is they generally bend easily, as
long as the bend is not severe, and the wood is fairly straight grained
and clear of knots. Severe bends I'd go for steam. Really severe and
I'd go with air dried, and steam.
Also, cherry looks a lot like mahogany I think, and it bends well.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 11:04:11 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
Get a round tooth pick and break it in its middle, forming a "V", i.e., leaving the halves/legs joined. Pinch the legs together and stick the "break" on your tongue, to wet it, then place it on a flat surface (table/counter top) and watch what happens.
I don't have a tooth pick, but I'm listening... I assume the wood would
swell some and bend a bit towards it's original position?
If you have a tooth pick, try soaking it in water overnight, then see if
it bends more before breaking. I'm not saying it will or won't, I'm just
curious. I do know to make wood really flexible, heat will do it, water
or not. Heat pipes are used for this sans water.
Very thin pieces of wood will bend on there own, to very tight radius.
For example, shavings from a plane curl up nicely. Thick stuff requires
heat, possibly because water alone will not seep in enough to soften the
stuff that glues the wood fibers together. I think this is particularly
true with kiln dried wood where the glue is really stiff, less so with
air dried or green wood.
Soaking a thin strip of cedar in water overnight probably would help,
particularly if the cedar were not kiln dried. Soaking wood in water
takes a really long time to penetrate the wood to any depth. A 3/4 inch
piece of wood soaked for days would likely not penetrate much at all, I
would think, and bending it would be unlikely.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
Basically, the wood in _tension_ on the bent toothpick broke; the wood
in _compression_ expanded after is elasticity was increased by moisture
content added by the tongue ... resulting in the toothpick's "leg's
Thereby illustrating that the moisture content (water) of the wood plays
a part in the bending of wood, not just heat.
When any board is bent, the wood on the outside (convex) side is put in
tension; the wood on the inside (concave side) is out in compression.
It's all about increasing the elasticity of the wood fibers on the
compressed side of any desired bend, which both a higher moisture
content and heat will provide.
Introducing both heat, and a higher moisture content (most effectively
done by the application of steam) increases the elasticity of the wood
fibers, and, most importantly for bending, those that will be in
compression (concave side), by roughly ten times, allowing a much
greater radius of bend than with a board with normal moisture content.
That, unfortunately, doesn't apply to the side in tension ... thus
ultimately limiting the radius of a bend before breaking ... just like
IOW, anyone wanting to bend solid wood of any usable thickness, and
having it maintain the desired bend, will use both moisture and heat.
That said, this really doesn't apply to the OP, as his was about "bent
lamination", a totally different method of bending wood.
Was at a bar last night, got a hamburger and it had a long round tooth
pick stuck in it. I broke it in the middle and placed it in a wet spot
on the bar. Nothing happened at all. Placed it in a wet napkin, and
still, nothing happened... Next time I'll take it home and soak it
overnight and see if it will bend more before breaking.
Experience is what you get when you were expecting something else.
On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 12:45:50 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
t worked for me...
No idea, just a piece of 2 x 6 cedar from the big box store lying around in
my garage...I was trying to build a homemade cartop sculling boat carrier
out of wood instead of the usual aluminum or SST bent plate. Radius is roug
hly 7"-->8", so pretty tight. I tried forming dry, and heard cracking so I
decided to try wet, thinking 1/8" thick strips loaded into a 4" diameter PV
C pipe capped on both ends (full of water) was worth trying...
On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 1:48:25 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
it worked for me...
in my garage...I was trying to build a homemade cartop sculling boat carrie
r out of wood instead of the usual aluminum or SST bent plate. Radius is ro
ughly 7"-->8", so pretty tight. I tried forming dry, and heard cracking so
I decided to try wet, thinking 1/8" thick strips loaded into a 4" diameter
PVC pipe capped on both ends (full of water) was worth trying...
looking to create something like this:
from cedar for carting my 1946 wood racing single to and from the lake...ju
st seems like the right thing to do...
On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 11:45:50 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
We don't know how long his boards/slats are.
The 180 degree value is not all you need to consider, no matter if steamed,
heated only or watered only. What is the radius of the bend? A 180 deg
ree curve in a 10' board/slat is "different" (Karl's tension notes), than a
180 degree curve in a 10" board/slat.
Agreed. He probably is ok with bending his slats with no assistance.
of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
Maybe some background is in order -
The original plan was to make six garden chairs from Honduras Mahogany. We
made the first two from Mahogany, and that was insanely expensive, so I loo
ked for an alternative lumber. I found a wood called "red Grandis" a planta
tion grown Australian Eucalyptus (which is grown in Uruguay). That has work
ed reasonably well, but the local source has closed down.
I need wood for two more chairs, and I don't want to again the more expensi
ve Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another source for the Re
that honduran mahogany is really nice looking
surprised to know there is a eucalyptus that looks comparable
so you have six chairs and three different woods
seems like the last wood choice just needs to be close to one of the
maybe it is time to repurpose some old furniture from the second
hand store or thrift store or garage sale or craigslist
When I look at them side-by-side, the Red Grandis has a redder cast and the Mahogany looks a bit more yellow. By the way, I think "Red Grandis" may be the commercial trade name the wood is marketed as.
Normally, yes, but the chairs aren't all going to the same recipient. Two for me, two for a friend, and two for a friend's brother-in-law. They won't be seen together.
i thought it might be
i have some blue gum but did not know there was a rose gum
then that is a different situation
now you just need to find some wood suitable for the chair style
i see a lot of nice wood on craigslist and i know a lot never
goes up for sale
most pro tree trimmers have guys that take certain species and
make furniture or cabinetry
depends what is local on what you can find
but the big question is who gets the honduran mahogany chairs
African mahogany; specifically, Khaya ivorensis. Particuarly attractice
when quarter sawn (ribbon stripe). One source...
Spanish cedar is a relative of mahogany but much softer. I've never bent it
but I wouldn't expect any problem were I so inclined.
On Tue, 31 May 2016 10:50:32 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
A friend made an Adirondack chair from Spanish cedar and it was
gorgeous. I've used it for the sound board on a hammered dulcimer and it
was beautiful there as well - finish was nothing but dewaxed shellac.
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
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