On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 12:50:35 PM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
r of the Mahogany family, not cedar...
e made the first two from Mahogany, and that was insanely expensive, so I l
ooked for an alternative lumber. I found a wood called "red Grandis" a plan
tation grown Australian Eucalyptus (which is grown in Uruguay). That has wo
rked reasonably well, but the local source has closed down.
sive Honduras Mahogany. I haven't been able to find another source for the
I am surprised your source for Honduran Mahogany is so expensive. Dependin
g on where you live, you can find importers who will have some "shorts" of
six to seven feet long and save a buck or two per board foot on the cost.
My local source for Honduran Mahogany is prices about the same as oak in th
e big box stores. Worth a thought. Also you might use this (assuming you
have not already) to locate some suppliers in your area.
On 5/31/2016 10:13 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
IME, you should have no problem doing a bent lamination, as described,
with red cedar.
But, don't take anyone's word for it. Do a couple of trial runs from a
batch representative of what you will be using.
Why? One of the issues can be springback, and that often varies with the
My bet is you'll be fine.
Sorry, meant to type "Spanish cedar", not "red" ...
<the "s" thru "h" had fallen onto the floor, found them under the desk
for use below> lol
What I said still holds true.
On that note, there seems to be some confusion about which bending
technique is being used?
"Bent lamination", as a method that does not usually involve steam;
"steam bending is a different method/bending technique altogether.
IME, "bent lamination" should work fine for _Spanish_ cedar, however.
I have steam bent parts for Windsor chairs, but this is strictly glueup.
I've glued up plies of ⅛" slats and clamped them to a robust form.
The bendings are ⅞" for one shape and ⅝" for another.
An large proportion of the stock ends up as shavings, An 8/4 plank yields a
⅞" thick piece. That's a lot of waste for $9.50 per board foot.
I guess I didn't make it clear that I've already made many bent laminations
from both Honduras Mahogany and Red Grandis, and my source of the less exp
ensive Red Grandis has shut down. What I wanted to know was if anyone had e
xperience using Spanish Cedar for bent laminations.
Since the chairs are for outdoors, I need a suitable species. I'm consideri
ng any less pricey, easily and nearby available alternatives.
For what it's worth, I've done lots of steam bending for Windsor chair part
s. That's not what I need for this project.
On 06/03/2016 2:42 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Personally, no, but
says it bends moderately well. I'd go check the US Forest Products Lab
site for the properties book as well if were wanting to know all there
is to be known--or check Hoadley...
Not really an answer to your question, but have you tried "lyptus",
which is a brand name for a farm-grown hybrid of eucalyptus grandis and
eucalyptus urophylla, marketed in the US by Weyerhauser?
Both my local suppliers have it for less than Spanish cedar.
Also, just a note in passing, Woodworker's Source is having a sale on
Red Grandis right now through I believe July 31.
On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 10:13:12 AM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
?" slats glued to ⅞" thickness.
No Spanish cedar laminations, here, however....
Did you do bent laminations on the other chairs?
Your finished slats will be (1/8" thick and) 1/2" wide? That's pretty nar
row. That narrow of slat should bend fairly easily. How acute will your
The problem I've found with bent laminations, no matter what wood, is each
slat has a tendency to twist, despite careful alignment. One portion of a
slat will bend differently, than another portion of the same slat. Most
of my BLs have been with salvaged lumber, so new lumber may be a better cho
ice for making the slats.
New/newer air dried lumber should bend easily. Try not to use kiln dried
lumber, which may be a problem or not an option.
When cutting your slats, try to have the wood be consistent (the wood grain
and densities, all along the length, be equal... no knots or near knot are
as, no anolalies, if possible).
Not only do a test run, as Karl says, but when you cut your slats, cut seve
ral extras. Cut them at least 1/4" (1/2" is better for wider slats) wider
than your proposed finished piece. *Shaving/jointing down the assembled
unit of a 1/2" wide bent "stick" might be a test in itself.
On your test run, as you bend each slat, listen for small cracking/popping
sounds. If you hear many of them, then your wood may have a tendency to s
plit, somewhere along its length. I would test compare two or more slats.
.. one having been wet over night and one dry. Check the difference (crac
king/popping sounds) in each their bending. Spanish cedar should absorb mo
isture fairly well, for bending purposes.... *after a little reading here~~
Re Rocker - The backrest arc (bent lamination) on the left (my right) is 1/
8" thick slats, 1" wide oval (finished) crown. I did have some springback
of that crown after the chair was completed/constructed. Red maple salva
ged wood, which absorbs moisture readily (possibly similar to S. cedar).
I've done several ER cedar laminations... not fun, not always pleased with
the results, but results were good enough. No high end type projects. Ced
ar was not salvaged, bit had the logs milled.
Final word: Bending those small of slats shouldn't be a problem, IMO.
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