New Bandsaw - question

Have you mic'd the weld?

I have 2 WoodSlicer blades, A 3/8" installed and a 1/2" still in the paper, which I unwrapped just for you. ;-)

Using my digital calipers, I read a 5-10 thousands of an inch difference at various spots on the blade, including the weld. In fact, in the 1/2" or so where the weld has been filed smooth, some spots are 5/1000 thinner than other spots on the blades. In other words, certainly no lump.

Even without an actual lump, a bad weld could cause the clicking. If the blade is not "flat" at the weld, but instead slightly angled (imagine a very wide V at the weld) it would not slide through the guide blocks smoothly.

On my blades, the welds are essentially imperceptible. On the new blade, which is all nice and shiny, I have to hold the blade at just the right angle so that the light makes the weld visible. I can also tell by the slight difference in the distance between the teeth at that point.

As DerbyDad said. STOP everything, get a Woodslicer from Highland Hardware, put it on and see what you get. Even their house blade is better than any of the major brands I have tried.

The first thing to do is to get the "Bandsaw Book" (Mark Duginske) and read it cover-to-cover.

I have a Highland Woodworking house brand blade on it. They know me well at Highland. ;-) I have a Woodslicer (and a Resaw King) but wanted to start with a cheaper blade until I started making real sawdust.

I'll try measuring the blade with a micrometer but I don't think that's the problem. As I said, the noise is coming from the upper guide at the block at the back edge of the blade. I can turn the wheel by hand and hear it as the weld crosses the rear edge block. The side guide blocks aren't touching the blade. The instructions call for a gap the width of a piece of paper between the side blocks and the blade but touching the blade edge guide.

No, I don't have a micrometer. I'll have to get one. I normally use (Imperial) dial calipers. The batteries in digital calipers are always dead when I need it so gave up on them.

Thanks. Even I didn't unwrap the more expensive blades. Trying to play with the cheaper blade.

But the noise is as it crosses the rear block, not the side blocks. It has to be the back edge of the blade causing the problem (or I have it set riding too hard on the block).

I guess a front to back blade alignment error would do it. Side to side, they're not touching (or shouldn't be).

I can certainly see the weld. It is "filed" but it is visible (different color, even).

If you have other blades handy, and you're just testing it by hand, why not just try another blade? If more than one blade "clicks", then the problem's the saw, either in your set-up or the saw itself.

I'll try that tomorrow. I have another generic blade before I break out the Woodslicer. I was more wondering if this is "normal" with the ceramic guide blocks. One wouldn't hear it with guide wheels, I don't think.

I spent the day cleaning the room and moving everything back where it belongs. The floor is a mess too. The floor is dusting and it's everywhere. I can't sweep without filling the room with cement dust (may have to get a air cleaner just for that).

We're getting overboard here...

If there's a slight bump at the back of the blade at the weld, a few strokes with a whet stone will both reveal its presence and remove it.

If the "tick" goes away, good...if not, unless it's more than just what I'm imagining you're describing, "so what."

If it bothers, move the guide back a smidge...it'll push against it anyways, as soon as you make a cut and put pressure on the front of the blade.

Hadn't thought of that. Doh!

That's basically what I'm asking. "Is this something to worry about?" I don't want to damage the guide blocks (there are some warnings).

I guess. The instructions say that the blade should ride on the block and even wear a groove in it (rotate the block every 80ish hours).

...

Exactly. They're wear blocks, for heaven's sake.

HTH

You can get the best circular saw reviews from some blog for you woodworking project.

Spam still tastes like crap. Now go away little boy.

I agree... stoning the blade to remove lumps/uneven welds used to be a common thing but it seems that folks have moved away from it.

On narrow blades and tight cutting radiuses stoning the corners off the back of the blade is a useful tip too.

The other day it occurred to me that it's been almost 30 years since I found the rec... fall of 1990. In the world of the WWW it's kind of surprising Usenet has survived at all...

If no one else has mentioned this yet, get a blade file to rub against the spinning blade until the clicking goes away. Then adjust the guides closer.

With ceramic guides you can actually have the guides lightly touch the blade, this helps to keep the pitch build up at a minimum.