The image below is part of a steel weather vane. As you can see, it's rusty and getting worse. My friend wants to remove the rust then clear coat the piece to prevent the rust from coming back.
You can't really tell from the image, but there appears to already be some type of (uneven) clear coat on the piece already.
What's the process to remove the rust and existing coating without damaging the metal and what's the proper product to prevent the rust from coming back?
Derby, there is a polymer that converts rust to an epoxy like substance. C ar restorers and repair shops know about it. I first ran across it in the late 80's. Now, it would be nice if I could tell you the trade name, but t he memory files are rather spotty back that far. ;-)
Car restorers and repair shops know about it. I first ran across it in th e late 80's. Now, it would be nice if I could tell you the trade name, but the memory files are rather spotty back that far. ;-)
The rust is really just surface rust. I don't know if there is even enough to "convert". Besides, I think it would come out very uneven, consider that the rust is uneven and t he owner wants the bare (but protected) metal to show.
I think whatever clear coating is on there should come off too since it obv iously isn't providing any protection.
Have it sand blasted, using walnut shell or similar blasting medium. I've had several small items sand blasted for $10-$20 each. Those blasting guys know how to take care of delicate items, if/when need be.
Another option, use a 3M ROLOC disk in whatever you've got. Ideally it's a die grinder but you can chuck in a Rotozip or a router motor or whatever you've got that will take a 1/4 inch shaft and can be adjusted to run below 20,000 RPM. It will work in a drill but it's happier if it's running faster.
National Auto Parts has a nice little starter set for around (IIRC) 12 bucks that usually hangs in the paint section. Tell the person behind the counter that you want some ROLOCs and if he or she isn't completely new on the job they'll know what you're talking about.
There will typically be some fine residue left--it's just dust, clean it off with whatever you like to use for paint prep.
Personally I wouldn't go with a clear coat--clear coat doesn't have any UV resistance to speak of, even if it says it does, and any of it is going to break down after a while. Personally I'd give is a coat of ZRC Cold Galvanizing (order it on Amazon--there's a similar Rust-Oleum product that is not generally as well regarded) and then paint it whatever color I liked--if you want it to have a metallic appearance there are metallic paints in rattle cans.
I'd say that the clear coating has worked, otherwise all of it would be rusty. I suspect that the coating developer a small hole, and the rust began there. You're options are to remove all the loose coating, the rust, and then refinish. And inspect regularly, it can be yearly, before the start of the rainy season, what ever.
It won't remove rust. Though they say their rust remover will, sorta, but not an better than steel wool and phosphoric acid. Boeshield does a good job of covering things like table saw tables (I use it) but I sure wouldn't use it on an exterior application like a weathervane. This needs to be something intended for exterior use (UV exposure, and all).
I have mentioned this before. Wood glue, like TB III will remove rust. Put a small amount on the rusty spot, let it set about a minute and remove. Works like a charm when I get a glob of glue on my cast iron TS top.
I'll pass the tip along, but your table saw probably doesn't have any kind of clear coat finish on it. I suspect that the issue with this object is a combination of normal rusting and something to do with whatever kind of finish is on the metal.
It was purchased at a crafts show. I wonder if my friend has a receipt or a business card from the vendor. I'm guessing he knows what he put on his metal work and the best way to get the finish off.
I have a number of those items. I'd be worried about scratching the surface or burnishing some areas and leaving different colored spots.
That list of over 1000 items would need to be narrowed down to epoxy that is made to handle all sorts of weather, temps from below 0 to over 100, UV safe, etc.
e. Car restorers and repair shops know about it. I first ran across it in the late 80's. Now, it would be nice if I could tell you the trade name, but the memory files are rather spotty back that far. ;-)
gh to "convert". Besides, I
d the owner wants the
obviously isn't providing
I'll lend him my box of crushed walnut shells. I'd want them all back thoug h.
e. Car restorers and repair shops know about it. I first ran across it in the late 80's. Now, it would be nice if I could tell you the trade name, but the memory files are rather spotty back that far. ;-)
gh to "convert". Besides, I
d the owner wants the
obviously isn't providing
If it developed a hole, then it didn't work.
Uh, yeah. That was pretty much the idea behind my post. I know what needs t o be done. I'm looking for suggestions on the best methods and products for actu ally doing it.
DerbyDad03 on Mon, 25 May 2020 13:10:53 -0700 (PDT) typed in rec.woodworking the following:
If you expect anything to work until the end of time, well, the only thing that does that is prayer, and the Good Lord. After that, "there will be a time when it is not." B-)
The weather vane was purchased in late March 2020, at one of the last crafts events held this year. (Only 100 people allowed on the grounds at any given time)
The unit has been outside for barley 2 months, not factoring in how long or where the craftsman himself stored it.
"The end of time" is a bit of a stretch expectations-wise.
My friend used 1 part WD-40, 1 Part #1 steel wool and 5 parts elbow grease.
He's coated it with WD-40 for the time being, but has no expectations that it's not going to rust again very soon. Still looking for a fairly long lasting clear coat to help maintain that bare metal look.
He's seen the strap hinges on my trailer which I painted with Cold Galvanizing spray compound. That's not the look he's after.
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