Miter Guage

I call Oak Rust.

Hummmmmmmmmmmm

You focussed right in on what was bothering me. I could not see how to use a sled or sacrificial board and take advantage of the "precision stops" that are an integral part of the product.

Of course, if one reads 130 reviews, the most common complaint, among those that complain, is the accuracy for length rather than angular measurement.

My thanks to everyone who has or is contributing to this thread. I have found every post thought-provoking and helpful.

Bill

The sacrificial fence can

ood enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can se= e they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not t= hat you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Mayb= e not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out = and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing e= qual a 5hp would better in IMNSHO but I suppose all things aren't equal and= the newer model saw with the 3hp prob has some better features in other ar= eas. So if the guy was going to be ripping 4x4's all day the 5hp might be b= ettah.

Well, my experience is different than yours. I guess they offer the 5hp jus= t so they can get more money.

OhmyBuddha! Not the Oak Rust thread again...

-- Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing. This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

--------------------------------- Bill spend money?

Surely you jest.

Lew

I was starting to wonder where you were. Good to see you! Neither a lender nor a lender be?

Believe me "it" flows, you can see it from under that Arco sign! : )

Bill

Oops, that was a typo: "Neither a borrower nor a lender be." That's was I get for looking the quote up while I type it.

It is a seldom used item once you have made a sled and/or own some type of miter saw. I wouldn't waste any time or money on one.

That sounds like a good way to start.

I have a miter saw and Dubby miter sleds, left and right sides. I pretty much use the Incra 1000HD exclusively now. I use the sleds 10+ years and then I got the Incra which is more convenient and just as accurate.

It is if you only want to make 90 degree cuts. For mitered cuts you want to go with an Incra miter gauge or if you prefer the sled, get something like the Dubby,

enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.

similar strain on a uni-saw at my buddies shop, that eventually burned out and he upgraded to a 5hp and it always cuts like buttah. All thing sbeing equal a

so they can get more money.

No, I think both saws you had issues with had bad motors, or dull blades, or these saws were out of alignment, which seems apparent since you did have one motor fail. Seriously a 220 volt 3hp motor should have easily handled what you were cutting.

Length accuracy is a strong point with the Incra, it took me a while to understand how to quickly recalibrate the miter gauge stop and fence after moving it from one side of the blade to the other. I use the gauge on the right side of the blade to take advantage of the long table on my saw to square the ends of stock. I use the gauge on the left side for cutting to length. When going back to the left side you have to recalibrate the fence, recalibration takes about 10 seconds or however long it would take you to position the stop on "zero" and slide the fence and stop up to the blade and tighten two bolts.

I'm flashing on the time that I had a piece of 8/4 ipe planed down to 1-