Do you think this (see link below) is a reasonable miter saw stand
(Masterforce MX124),or should I insist on crafting something myself?
FWIW, I collected anew Delta DW713saw, so far untested! :)I did get in
some shop time this weekend, but on an unrelated repair.
The main issueI see with making my own is my lack of a jointer. Another
option is to mount the saw on a table (or saw horses) and use a roller
stand (I've seen pictures of that being done, but it looksrisky). It's
not like I'm planning to build a deck or anythinglike that--more like,
"clamp stand" and "plant table".
That depends, my personal feelings on these type of stands is that they
server the contractor better than a woodworker.
But if you are just using it for home repair then it probably fits the
bill (no pun intended)... But if you plan to gravitate to furniture,
etc.. then the drawbacks I see are repeatabliity (acurately)
Will you actually set it up. I picked up a kitchen cabinet from a
neighbor, built wings and mounted it. I don't have long wings, like that
in your setup. But I can comfortably put an eight foot board on by
adding my roller or ball bearing supports. My wings give me 43 inches
left and right of the blade.
It's good price. BTW you don't need a jointer to make one. use mdf,
mdo, baltic birch, or cab grade ply. if you don't have a TS yet, route
your dados. The most imporant dados are the fence. the support can be
more crude, it just has to keep the fence from deflecting.
See if you can find reviews.. if you are purchasing that. Don't wind up
Thanks for mentioned that. I didn't even think of a fence.
I could not find any reviews. The one that Leon posted a link to looks
a little nicer ($70 more).
The one Leon provided a link to is steel at 75 pounds, the former is
alluminum at 52 pounds.
Thank you for all of the comments (from everyone who has replied). They
have already been helpful!
Although it has served me well, both in the shop and onsite,I would
probably spring for this today:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I much prefer a portable stand, like the above over the first, shop built,
If you have a good fence, and a secure design, and a good blade, can
this tool be expected to work to furniture-level tolerences? FWIW, I
bought an LED for the miter saw.
So far, I'm finding furniture-level tolerences to be a pain, and I've
barely started! :)
Anyone besides Leon familial with this beast (I see it is "Handy Man
Member Tested and Recommended"!).
Woodcraft sells the unit.
Here is a good and a bad review. Either way IIRC it las a life time
Impressive that it even supports a router table:
FWIW, the Portamate unit has a 1 year warranty, but the Menards
Masterforce unit has a lifetime warranty.
However, the former is steel and the latter aluminum.
Many of you may recall that I can't cut most man-made materials, due to
Thus I'm restricted to building with Purebond plywood (which, except for
C-3 plywood, is inconvenient to get)
and wood, and all of my decisions are made in that context. I can't
just grab a sheet of MDF because it's appropriate.
IMHO, being made of aluminum is an advantage: if you're not going to move the
you don't need a portable stand -- and if you *do* need a portable stand, you
*want* it to be
I've been using a DeWalt DW723 portable stand for my 10" miter saw for about 8
It's made of aluminum, and it's (a) plenty sturdy, and (b) heavy enough as it
is. I'm really, really
glad it's *not* steel.
A couple of thoughts, Bill. I don't know anything about that unit, but if
you want to buy rather than build keep an eye on CL for a few days and one
is likely to come up. I built my own pretty quickly using two-bys and lami
nated MDF. I've got two 15" by 4' tables with a center recess that brings t
he chop saw table coplanar with the table tops. I used angle iron on the c
enter ends of each table and mounted my chop saw to another piece of MDF.
That keeps the chop saw portable. I also mounted a long t-track on one of
the tables with a stop block for multiple cuts to the same length.
I have a wood rack. I built it to hold my hardwoods. What I found is
that I can clamp 2 x 4's to the supports all in (plane) and leave them
there for a few months. This brings them to equilibrium, but due to my
setting them with clamps seems to keep them very straight. I realize
that they might be held in stress, but so far each one that I have
either ripped or crosscut has stayed that way.
So 2x can be used, you just need patience.
Not saying you could use for furniture, but you could use for other
purposes. Pick nice straight stuff to begin with, also look for clean
wood. Spruce has lots of knots, doug fir can be found clean.
Looks good but If I were to do it all over again I would with and about
$70~$100 more . Seems a bit more versatile.
Sold here too,
(Amazon.com product link shortened)63563817&sr=8-1&keywords=pm7000&condition=new
As others have said - you don't need a jointer to make your own.
Here's some -plans in case you do make your own.
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