Still TS-less, but haven't quit looking (leaning toward Grizzly 0690 if I don't locate something used by the time I'm ready). It seems like a good miter guage is practically as important as a good fence and a good blade.
The Incra Miter 3000 looks "dandy"--perhaps overkill. I heard that the one that comes with the saw is "junk". What do you think?
Cheers, Bill
Sorry, I need to work on my spelling: "gAUge"!!!
Depends on your needs.
A stock gauge can be made to work just fine, but you will find that you rarely use it.
Take the one that comes with the saw and jazz it up with several bases and some snazzy t-track like this
Table saws are made to rip wood and sheet goods, neither of which require a miter gauge.
I would look for a used Unisaw and c>
I have a couple of Dubby jigs, left and right, had a Kreg miter gauge and fence till it froze up on me and was worthless ofter that. I have research many over the years. Osbourn, don't taste your time, inherent flaws. I now have the Incra 1000HD and I added the next longer sized fence. That is a superb miter gauge and I only initially wanted to use it to square the ends of boards. For the most part it is so accurate that I almost exclusively use it over the Dubby jig sleds that I used for 11 years prior.
I looked at the 3000 but decided there was too much going on behind the miter fence. 1 degree indexing is good enough for me however I can still dial in 1/10 of a degree.
I find I use the longer fence all of the time. Something to consider.
I am a sled guy and rarely use the miter guage but find a basic one good en= ough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they= have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that yo= u need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not = as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news1.newsguy.com:
The miter gauges provided with most table saws aren't very good: no stops or detents, and rather coarse graduations on the miter scale. IMHO, a detent at zero is an absolute necessity.
When I started doing serious woodworking, I got rid of the stock gauge in favor of an Incra
1000.Two years later, I replaced it with an Incra 3000. Eight years later, I'm still using the 3000, and have no plans to change to anything else.
I bought the Incra V120. No fence, but that's an easy add on. And it's not overly expensive. See:
enough for what I do with it. That looks like a nice Griz saw. I can see they have a 1023 for the same price that is 5hp not 3 like the 690. Not that you need it but the extra umph can be a big help on some projects. Maybe not as slick a setup on the riving and fence, but not sure.
Not doubting the 5 hp has more umph than 3 hp but in what application would that be better than 3 hp?
I have resawed a 1x6 piece of Ipe in two passes, full depth cutting and had no indication of strain with 3hp.
I could see the advantage if the saw was running hard all day long continuously, but just wondering.
My 3 hp can run out of power cutting dado's some times.
I had an Incra 1000, that I bought on Ebay. Turns out it was warped. Called Incra, told them what I had and where I got it. They replaced it AND gave my my choice of a 1000, 1000SE or a 2000. In talking to the rep, I chose the 1000SE, primarily based on his recommendation. Very glad I did - one fanstastic miter gauuge, from an awesome company.
Deb
Recalibrate your elbow tension for those times. ;)
-- And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. -- Anaïs Nin
I bought the low-end Incra on sale a few months ago and added an 18 inch Kreg t-slot bar. Slots on top and bottom. Needed a tad of tweaking to get it square to the blade, but very adjustable. Used that Kreg bar on my sled as well and am pleased with my crosscutting options.
Beats the heck out of my standard Delta, which hasn't been quite the same since it decided to take a dive on the floor.
Larry
detents, and
favor of an Incra
still using the 3000, and
Doug and Leon: Do you usually hold and/or clamp a zero-clearence board and/or sled to the miter gAUge fence when you use it (for work you want to come out "nice")? I'm starting to appreciate why miter saws are popular...
Bill
tiredofspam wrote in news:TdOdnURKzvXVLMLSnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@ptd.net:
+1
I have an older Grizzly 3HP, 220v. The included miter gauge head is cast iron, bar is steel. You couldn't get to 1/2 a degree with it but It is perfectly usesable for 99.9% of what most people would be doing. IOW, not junk.
Well there is that but I don't witness that either, cutting 3/4" wide, half inch deep dados in oak.
The bar can be either plain or "T" via a removeable washer. It has built in stops at 45 degrees L&R. The 90 degree stop is adjustable via a set screw against a drop down piece of steel, NP getting it at precisely 90 degrees.
The Incra fences, at least my 1000HD came with t-bolts to attach a sacrificial fence to the fence and the stop can be repositioned forward to accommodate a 3/4"thick sacrificial fence. The sacrificial fence can be easily and quickly adjusted. I use my gauge on both sides of the blade, right side for squaring the ends of long stock so the sacrificial fence gets slid and used in both directions.
I had a 12" Delta CMS, still do and I had a miter saw station set up until I upgraded to a cabinet saw and added the Dubby sleds 12 years ago. The TS literally replaced the CMS, I have not used the CMS in years.
I used the Dubby sleds exclusively for cross cutting work to length, I still used the Kreg miter gauge to square stock ends. Since getting the Incra 1000HD about a year ago I seldom use the Dubby sleds any more. The sleds still work great but the Incra miter gauge delivers accurate cuts.
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news3.newsguy.com:
Depends on the material, and on the blade -- but for cutting close-grained woods such as maple or cherry, using a sharp, clean, high-quality blade (e.g. Ridge Carbide or Forrest), I've found that to be unnecessary.
For highly figured wood, or open-grained woods such as ash or oak, I usually do use a backer board.
That seems strange... is it a 3 HP induction motor pulling around 14-15 AMP on 220 V or is it a universal motor running on 110 with a 3 HP rating?
I find that cutting even deep dados isn't a problem with my 3 HP Jet cabinet saw as there is plenty of clearance for saw dust clearing and there is no kerf binding. This as compared to rip cuts with a typical 1/8" kerf blade where the ability to remove saw dust is limited by the gullet size, and kerf pinch is not uncommon even with rip blades... Those issues, rather than the HP, require slowing the feed rate down a bit in 8/4" stock.
John
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