The Incra fences, at least my 1000HD came with t-bolts to attach a
sacrificial fence to the fence and the stop can be repositioned forward
to accommodate a 3/4"thick sacrificial fence. The sacrificial fence can
be easily and quickly adjusted. I use my gauge on both sides of the
blade, right side for squaring the ends of long stock so the sacrificial
fence gets slid and used in both directions.
I had a 12" Delta CMS, still do and I had a miter saw station set up
until I upgraded to a cabinet saw and added the Dubby sleds 12 years
ago. The TS literally replaced the CMS, I have not used the CMS in years.
I used the Dubby sleds exclusively for cross cutting work to length, I
still used the Kreg miter gauge to square stock ends. Since getting the
Incra 1000HD about a year ago I seldom use the Dubby sleds any more.
The sleds still work great but the Incra miter gauge delivers accurate cuts.
You focussed right in on what was bothering me. I could not see how to
use a sled or sacrificial board and take advantage of the "precision
stops" that are an integral part of the product.
Of course, if one reads 130 reviews, the most common complaint, among
those that complain, is the accuracy for length rather than angular
My thanks to everyone who has or is contributing to this thread. I have
found every post thought-provoking and helpful.
The sacrificial fence can
Length accuracy is a strong point with the Incra, it took me a while to
understand how to quickly recalibrate the miter gauge stop and fence
after moving it from one side of the blade to the other. I use the
gauge on the right side of the blade to take advantage of the long table
on my saw to square the ends of stock. I use the gauge on the left side
for cutting to length. When going back to the left side you have to
recalibrate the fence, recalibration takes about 10 seconds or however
long it would take you to position the stop on "zero" and slide the
fence and stop up to the blade and tighten two bolts.
Depends on the material, and on the blade -- but for cutting close-grained woods
maple or cherry, using a sharp, clean, high-quality blade (e.g. Ridge Carbide or
I've found that to be unnecessary.
For highly figured wood, or open-grained woods such as ash or oak, I usually do
I had an Incra 1000, that I bought on Ebay. Turns out it was warped.
Called Incra, told them what I had and where I got it. They replaced it AND
gave my my choice of a 1000, 1000SE or a 2000. In talking to the rep, I
chose the 1000SE, primarily based on his recommendation. Very glad I did -
one fanstastic miter gauuge, from an awesome company.
I bought the low-end Incra on sale a few months ago and added an 18 inch
Kreg t-slot bar. Slots on top and bottom. Needed a tad of tweaking to
get it square to the blade, but very adjustable. Used that Kreg bar on
my sled as well and am pleased with my crosscutting options.
Beats the heck out of my standard Delta, which hasn't been quite the
same since it decided to take a dive on the floor.
I have an older Grizzly 3HP, 220v. The included miter gauge head is cast
iron, bar is steel. You couldn't get to 1/2 a degree with it but It is
perfectly usesable for 99.9% of what most people would be doing. IOW, not
The bar can be either plain or "T" via a removeable washer. It has built in
stops at 45 degrees L&R. The 90 degree stop is adjustable via a set screw
against a drop down piece of steel, NP getting it at precisely 90 degrees.
I have a miter saw and Dubby miter sleds, left and right sides. I
pretty much use the Incra 1000HD exclusively now. I use the sleds 10+
years and then I got the Incra which is more convenient and just as
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