Mason and Sullivan Plans search..... (2023 Update)

I've been though this more than once. Totaled typically means that the cost to repair is greater than 70-75% of the cash value of the vehicle involved.

Yes, in some cases it's that easy, in some cases - especially on a vehicle with a low cash value - it doesn't make financial sense. In addition, depending on the age of the vehicle, you may have to deal with a salvage title, which can be real PITA. (I would not have to in this case, which is a good thing.)

Except that you don't get the full payment if they deem it totaled and you buy it back. You get the repair cost estimate minus the salvage value minus your deductible. Depending on where those numbers land, your out-of-pocket expenses could be pretty high.

Well, in the case of the 2014 incident, I doubt I ever would have found a "comparable vehicle". It was a 2004 Odyssey with 160K on it. Most 10 YO vehicles with 160K on them don't look as good as my 10 YO vehicles with 160K on them. I'm just a tad anal when it comes to interior, exterior and engine compartment cleanliness. Unfortunately, even if a 10 YO vehicle with 160K is in really good condition, the cash value is (was) still so low that you'll never get what you had for that money. I've been through that twice.

Fast forward to 2022...

Based on this current situation your suggestion may not come into play. Two key factors: the current estimate of the repair and the price of used cars these days. We'll have to see what the repair shop says after they start taking the hatch off, etc.

According to the Ins Co, the current cash value of SWMBO's 2011 CR-V EX with 112K miles is...wait for it...$13.8K, taxes included. I was shocked. $9K would have been my estimate. (Remember my "cleanliness" comment above? $1100 of the $13.8K is a Condition credit because it's in better condition that most other vehicles in that space.)

The accessor's repair estimate is about $6K, nowhere near the 70-75% "totaled" amount. However, the accessor does not want the shop to order any parts until they've checked the vehicle for unseen structural damage. It could still end up being totaled. I should know more next week. Maybe $13.8K will get us a "comparable vehicle", but probably not.

Current local availability for a CR-V EX starts at a 2014 with 106K for $17K plus tax and title, probably pushing $19K. Not sure about it's overall condition though.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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The policy will spell out how this is handled. Not all work like that. FWIW I managed a body shop many years ago and totaled equaled the replacement price of a like vehicle.

At a certain point one should not insure a vehicle if it's value is low.

Again, ask question about the specific policy. And that would also depend on the type of coverage.

You get the repair cost estimate minus the salvage value minus your deductible.

We are in strange times, I am hearing that used vehicles are bringing up to 50% more than they did 2 years ago.

Reply to
Leon

The "cash value" is the same as "the replacement price". The 70-75% number comes in because there could easily be hidden damage that would push the repair cost over the value of the vehicle.

Some will replace the vehicle with a new one if it's under 1yr old. One of my wife's friends played hell getting even a reasonable settlement for a car they had for three days before a little old lady totaled it.

Insurance is designed to cover what you can't (easily) afford to lose. For the same reason, deductibles should be on the high side.

It's a rare time where one wishes one had a car coming off lease right now. People are picking up $5K and even 10K buying out a lease, then turning around and selling it.

My eight year-old F150 was totaled last July. The payout was $21K. I paid just over $25k for it in 2013. We looked at one F150 with

16K miles for $38K. I bought my 2021 "loaded" (all XLT trim packages) F150 for $38K, all in (taxes destination...). I hit both right with rebates. ;-)

Used cars are ridiculous but there are still some deals to be made on new vehicles. Some dealers are raping their customers. Some aren't.

Reply to
krw

If the following site is correct, it appears that most states spell out how that will works, not the insurance company. There are others sites that say the same thing, but I didn't compare the values state by state across those sites. Not sure the actual numbers matter but the fact that certain states set the limit appears to be real.

According to the following site, for states that don't set a percentage, a TLF (Total Loss Formula) is used (22 states). Fair market value of a vehicle minus its salvage value.

Of the remaining states that do set a percentage, the 70%-75% figure that I used earlier is a very close 2nd to the TLF states at 21. There is smattering of 60%, 65%,

80%, etc.

Only 2 states (yours and Colorado) use 100% as a stated percentage.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

Unfortunately, I am not aware of any clock newsgroups. Your best bet is to take it to a clock repairman for a consultation. Your local antique store might have a lead. I work at an antique mall in town, and one of our regular customers has a clock repair business. I have an old mantle clock that I need to take to him. It might keep time for an hour, or a couple of days, but the pendulum always eventually stops.

Reply to
Michael Trew

Something else to consider, at least in Texas, and this concerns purchasing auto insurance. While regulated, that is all relative after certain individual factors.

If 2 individuals live next door to each other, buy identical vehicles for the exact same price, are the exact same sex and age, and finally work for the same company making the same wage, their quotes can be different. Credit score can cost you hundreds.

Reply to
Leon

Wind up clocks typically need regular maintenance to prevent them from simply wearing out. We have a clock that we got new 40+ years ago. I never maintained it other than winding it. Finally about 9 years ago it simply would not run at all.

The repair guy said I could pay him to disassemble and clean but it was likely going to need some parts replaced/repaired. That would be 2x~3x dollars. Or put in a new movement, exactly the same, for 1x dollars. And then on a 1~3 year maintenance schedule to make it last indefinitely, pay .4x.

Reply to
Leon

That's true in most of the country. Auto insurance isn't alone. Homeowner's insurance is the same. There is a strong correlation between credit score and risk. It's pretty easy to see the causality direction so it's a good marker for cost/price.

Reply to
krw

I would have it repaired, personally. The new movement ruins the nostalgia for an antique clock, in my opinion. Same for people who gut old radios, etc. I restore them and listen to AM broadcasts.

Reply to
Michael Trew

Understood. If my clock was a hundred years old I "might" consider paying the extra money to have it repaired. I my case, the Seth Thomas movement is generic, so to speak. I was able to find the same brand/company that provided the original movement so it is not like Seth Thomas made all of the components of the clock to begin with.

In my case, the clock is only 42 years old. It would be like you restoring a Magnavox or Zenith radio and finding the original electronics that were made by Panasonic.

Reply to
Leon

I wouldn't restore it. What would I do with it? If I knew someone who could use it, they can have it but even though I remember much of the electronics of that era, I have no wish to own them now. They sounded like crap then and I can't imagine them being any better now.

The "All American Five" was a damn dangerous contraption. I'm surprised more people weren't electrocuted (it's the famous drop-it-in-the-water murder weapon). Nope no nostalgia here either.

The "good old days" in some ways was a better time but electronics wasn't one of them.

If your radio were 100 years old, it would be worth some real money though it might be quite hard to repair it.

Reply to
krw

I started thinking about this just as I hit the send button. KDKA started transmitting on Nov. 2 1920, so 100yrs isn't that much of a stretch.

Reply to
krw

Is this a kit ? I have assembly instructions for model 7152.

Reply to
Carlo latino

I just found your post from 6 years ago. Do you still have a copy of these plans? If you do could you send/sell me a copy please?

Reply to
dave b

And just why do you think anyone cares what a troll is selling. Including, possibly, a virus.

Reply to
krw

Why do you think I'm a troll? I thought this was a thread about M&S grandfather clock plans.

Reply to
dave b

Never mind him he thinks anyone posting from the homeowners site is a troll. But the thread is 13 years old, good luck but I would not hold off searching other avenues for the plans you seek.

Reply to
Markem618

Thinks? When was the last time that a post from there didn't reference another post that was in this, or last, decade? No one can even pretend to be that stupid.

Reply to
krw

You over estimate other humans.

Reply to
Markem618

Never. These trolls know exactly what they're doing. Notice that they never come back? Drive-by trolling.

If you never expect competence, you won't be disappointed.

Reply to
krw

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