installing beadboard

[edog]

Hi Folks,

I plan on installing beadboard in my kitchen and it will be a first for me so I have a few questions.

1) I don't want to use cement glue or any other adhesive to attach the beadboard directly to drywall. I might want to remove it one day or a future resident would like to without the complication of installing new drywall.

Can I attach 1/2" to 3/4" long wood strips (some call them furring strips) to the studs from the outside of the drywall to give myself a nailing surface to attach the beadboard? Do you see any problem with this being that there will be a small air pocket between the drywall and the beadboard ? (moisture/mold, even firehazard)

2) Do I need some moisture barrier between the drywall and beadboard since there will be a void between the two surfaces ?

3) Outlets:

What's the best way to handle the outlets since the beadboard will be 'floating' off the drywall. Will I have to extend the junction box out to the surface of the beadboard ? Or just purchase longer screws for the outlets to attach to the junction box. Remember I don't want to use any adhesives if at all possible for the above cited reasons.

I think that's it for now. Thanks in advance.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Sure, but since you know where the studs are, just nail the beadboard through the plaster or drywall and into the studs.

[edog]

that's just it. I don't plan on using the beadboard panel sheets. They look a bit cheap to me. I plan on either 1) making my own beadboard out of tongue and groove 1/2" planks or by the beadboard strips I think they are 5/8" and they look a lot better than the panelled sheets.

[TaskMule]

Strapping the wall horizontally will be just fine, and is the proper way to procede. No vapour barrier is required and the space behind is not an issue.

[Fly-by-Night CC]

I did this in my bathroom a year and a half ago. Made my own bead boards (2.375" wide x 32" tall) from pine - the sheet goods just don't look like the real thing. I went with horizontal furring strips, about 1.5" wide, with no barrier of any kind between the surfaces. Then used an 18g brad nailer to fix the bead boards to the strips. I absolutely hate construction adhesive for these types of applications.

Here's a quick pic:

As to the outlets, you can buy extension boxes made for this purpose. Look into what depths are available before you decide on the furring strip and bead board final thickness. If the extensions are, say 1" depth, you don't want too little thickness so the boxes project from the surface and you don't want too much so the receptacle ears are bent or strained.