Can I cover a Metal door jamb

Flippinthebirdforlife posted for all of us...

Why not?

Why not? You will still have a crappy looking metal door jam, but you will have a possibly better looking trim around it.

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

It's his house. Let the bride make the decision.

I wonder how old this post is from homeownershub???

When I clicked on that link, it showed that the message was:

"posted on November 26, 2016, 5:57 pm" (I think probably GMT).

I knew it was from homeownershub, because of the

Or use wide enough trim so you can nail to the frame - or glue the trim to the steel, or drill and tap the steel to tale small headed #4 or #6 machine screws which are smaller than sheet metal screws - and if they use fillister or socket gead scres they can counterbore instead of countersinking - making it even easier to cover the holes.

replying to Paintedcow, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Thank you!

replying to Tekkie®, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Hmmm..well I'm a single female sooooooo

replying to clare, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Thanks! Just want to do it right so I was worried about covering them up. Definitely don't want to pull them out as they are certainly anchored in well! I appreciate your encouragement!

replying to Paintedcow, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Today...lol

replying to clare, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Nice!!! Thank you so much

Other have already OK'd the trim around the doors, so I'll ask you about other parts of the room(s).

What about the windows? Will the drywall cause a problem with them?

What about the electrical outlets and switch boxes? Have you investigated those to make sure you will be able to move or extend the boxes. In my 1950's plastered wall house, the old style boxes would be a bear to move or extend. Doable, but a bear.

Why do you want to drywall over the plaster?

Others have told you yes and how, I just want to point out that the casing - the trim flat on the wall - has to allow the door to swing. If your door swings out, NP but if inswing the casing has to be either far enough away from the hinge or thin enough to not interfere with it. The thinness can be accomplished via a cove cut in the edge of the casing.

Are these the metal frames that have no casing trim? I know they were very popular in the late 50s and 60s. If so, you could probably just add casing around the door frame. You could just buy off the shelf casing. Or, here in the south, they use something called shadow box casing. At first I thought it looked really cheesy however I've come to like it a lot. In my case, they start with a 1 x 6 and slice off a 1 x

replying to DerbyDad03, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Honestly I just want a smooth finish and slight bit easier way to hang stuff on the walls. The plaster in my home crumbles so easily

replying to Art Todesco, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Lol Art, I will have to tread this 5 times for it to sink in... it was like this when I moved I. 3 years ago, and I'm fairly new at remodeling , but thanks so much for taking the time.e to respond

You didn't answer the rest of my questions.

How are you going to handle the windows and the electrical boxes?

Another question: How are you planning to attach the drywall?

replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote: Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and it appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't investigated how to do it. I'll be attaching slats to the plaster wall and then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into how to do it properly). My main concern is the door jamb, whether it would be "professional" to cover it up with wood trim.