Can I cover a Metal door jamb

[TomR]

I assume that, as you said, you will "...need to look into how to do it properly..." regarding the new drywall. There are various ways to do it. However, if you do use "slats" (furring strips) first and then attach the new drywall to that, you will probably be bringing the new all out too far to be able to deal with the windows and window trim etc. There are ways that the windows can be brought out to the plane of the new drywall, but it may be more work than you want to get into doing. And, it depends on what you have there now. The same is true regarding the outlets if you bring the new wall out too far. People do sometimes use furring strips when adding new drywall on ceilings, but ceiling usually don't involve trim and outlet issues except for maybe one ceiling light fixture.

Some people also go over old plaster walls with 1/4-inch thick drywall instead of 1/2-inch as a way of reducing the impact on existing window trim and baseboards etc. And, sometimes people just glue and screw the new drywall (whether 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the old plaster walls. If the old plaster walls have wood lath underneath the screws may hold to that, but it is also good to try to locate and hit studs that are under the original plaster walls.

As far as outlets are concerned, if you only add 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the thickness of the existing wall, there are outlet extenders that you can buy at Home Depot to bring to outlet box out to the level of the new wall. They call them "ReceptXtenders". Here's a link about that:

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to TomR, flippinthebirdforlife wrote: you are awesome! thank you so much!

[DerbyDad03]

Maybe I'm nit-picking here, but what is your definition of "slats"? If you are talking about furring strips, then you are looking at 3/4" of wood, then (I assume) 3/8" of drywall.

That's over an inch of new material. That may require more than just "trim" around the doors and windows. I'm envisioning the need to rip a bunch of filler strips to hide the gaps between the trim and the existing window/door frames. BTDT

This method attaches the drywall directly to the plaster by screwing through the plaster into the studs. They also mention using thin drywall (I assume 1/4").

If you look at the windows in the following video, you can see how the drywall appears to extend into the room more than the windows. That will need to be dealt with later - with something other than simple trim on the face of the drywall.

This guy laminates thin drywall directly to the plaster using drywall mud and then adds screws.

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote: This is super helpful! thank you so much. I considered going directly on the plaster, but my ex told me it was a bad idea...so I assumed it shouldn't be done that way. After watching this video, I'm excited to get going! I appreciate all of the information very much~

[Stormin' Norman]

I watched the video, it looks like he removed the plaster everywhere except on the fireplace.

There it looks like he laminated the drywall on top of the plaster using compound and then also used tapcon anchors around the perimeter of the drywall that went over the fireplace / chimney.

[DerbyDad03]

Not arguing, but it's kind of hard to tell what he did and what he "inherited". He said he inherited the job. His comments about having to add shims on that window wall led me to believe that he wasn't particularity happy with the progress thus far. I could be interpreting his words incorrectly.

The room farther back is even less clear. At 2:45 he gives us a tour of that room and we see that the plaster is still on the walls. In addition, all of the drywall and other supplies already in the room. It seems out of order that the supplies would be there - whether they are for that room *or* for the front room - if there was still some major demolition that needed to be done.

As I'm sure you know, removing plaster makes one hell of a mess. It seems strange to me that some drywall would have been already hung in the front room and that the finishing supplies would already be in the other room if multiple walls of plaster still had to be ripped out.

Again, hard to tell what actually happened since we're only shown a small part of a job that he walked into the middle of.

[Stormin' Norman]

One thing that is for certain, he did a nice job. He started out saying how tedious that work is and, he is right.

[dadiOH]

Easy to do, they make box extensions for that purpose, available in various depths.

Not so easy to do. Well it is, but you'll wind up with more thickness than you probably want. Normal thickness of drywall is 1/2". I wouldn't want less than 3/4" thick furring strips - and that is pretty skimpy - which makes your new wall 1 1/4" thick.

There is 1/4" drywall but it would make a very flimsy wall unless you used LOTS of close together furring strips. However, if your existing walls are flat enough you could use construction adhesive to bond 1/4" drywall directly to them.

[Matt_R]

I have never seen 1/4" drywall. 3/8" is the thinnest I've seen. Where do they sell 1/4"?

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to dadiOH, flippinthebirdforlife wrote: thank you so much!

[clare]

Common practice is to just glue drywall over plaster, taping joints as usual. Box extenders are available and REQUIRED when building out a wall. Adding the wood trim would beas "professional" as the rest of the job - and like the rest of the job depends on how well it is done.

[DerbyDad03]

Lowes, Home Depot, et al.

Some places even sell flexible drywall - 1/4" drywall that bends more than normal 1/4" drywall. I used some of that on the curved plaster ceiling of my main bathroom. No more peeling paint or cracked plaster.

[clare]

Still taking advise from your ex??

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to clare, flippinthebirdforlife wrote: lol! We remodeled our house together, so I did learn a lot from him...but that is why I am here I guess...to question what I was told...so....no, I guess I don't

[Tekkie®]

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

She could box extenders. I would suggest to the OP that she do much more research one what she wants to accomplish. Then we could answer the questions.