I plan to add two quarter-inch 4' x 8' perforated hardboard pegobard
panels over the existing drywal lon one wall of my garage.
I know I need to use 1"x2" furring strips at the top, bottom, and
sides of each pegboard sheet, but do I also need to use furring
strips on each vertical stud under the pegboard?. That is, if I only
install strips at the top, bottom and sides of a 4'x8' sheet, would
it flex too much in the middle if there aren't furring strips on each
vertical stud behind the pegboard?
I'd just go ahead and put them on each stud, but the more strips I
use, the more holes in the pegboard that become unusable - so I'd
rather only do it if necessary to properly support the pegboard.
IMO, some center support is necessary. At a minimum one every 2 foot of w
They sell some neat little bushing/washers that will solve this problems for
The bad news is they cost more than adding a simple vertical strip on 16 or
24" CC. Use something like one of your furring strips ripped into half or
thirds for the vertical member.
Use furring strips around the edges for edge-support,
and then cut your own bushings out of scrap wood
as stand-offs for each individual screw on the
interior. Pre-drill them, or they'll split.
At 16" o.c., If you screw through the existing holes,
you use up 10 spots. on the interior. If you can fit the
stand-offs between holes, you won't use up any.
Around the edges, you can still use duplex/scaffold
nails instead of pegboard hangers.
I have pegboard in my shed nailed to wall studs on 2-foot centers and
it seems to work very well. Since you have to put it over sheet rock,
my knee-jerk suggestion would be to use only horizontal furring strips,
with nothing on the sides. I would use five furring strips spaced
2-feet apart and screw the peg board on, through an existing hole,
using a power screwdriver. Use some screws with very large heads or
built-in washers. I would pre-drill holes in the furring strips and
fasten then on to the studs with screws also.
if you are a clutter saver you will never have enough pegboard holes.
first have a garage sale.
second, it will flex too much. i have that same pegboard in my shop.
install the support strips to support the maximum load of hammers and
extension cords etc which could hang there in the future.
Mark the area to be covered by the peg-board on the wall.
Find the studs in that area
Frame the outside edge of the area with furring strips
Cut short furring strips (3-4" long) and tack these evenly along the stud
lines within your fame about 12" apart
Now hang your peg-board. Screw securely to the outer frame and to the short
inner strips. I'd pre-drill and use screws long enough to reach clear thru
the peg-board, furring strips, and drywall to reach the studs, and use
washers to keep them from pulling through the board.
With this you only lose a few holes where the blocks are and around the
edges. You might be able to make use of these areas to put a stronger
screw-in hook to hang something that might be too heavy for the peg-board
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