Cutting beadboard

[Dan White]

Hi. I have to cut 9 4x9 panels of beadboard to be used as wainscoating. I have a circular saw, sabre saw, sawsall, and Dremel. I'm wondering what you think would be the best combination of speed and fineness of cut. I want a clean cut but only have a ripsaw on my circular. I don't think I'll be using the sawsall for this one, either! Anyway the beadboard will be stained and glazed before cutting so I want a clean cut. How about using a formica blade on the sabre saw? I don't really want to spend $20 on a fine toothed circular saw blade but if this is the right way to do it then so be it. Any suggestions? Also, are there any tricks, like tape the cut line first, or cut face down or something?

Oh, of course I will be covering much of the cut lines with moulding, but not all of it.

Thanks, dwhite

[Edwin Pawlowski]

If you don't want to spend $20 for the right tool to do the job right,you have two choices:

1. Wait until a family member dies and see if you inherit a good blade
2. Hope that for your birthday you get a gift certificate for Hacks R Us.

[Dave Jackson]

If you had the choice of doing a hack job with what you have now, or a first class job for another $20, which would you choose? Get a finish blade for the circular saw to do most cutting. Save the downcut jigsaw blade for cutting out for electrical devices, etc. I'm assuming you have 3/8" beadboard. If you still have problems with splintery cuts, slow the cut down. And it couldn't hurt to cut face down either. Hope this helps! --dave

[John Grossbohlin]

I'd be inclined to get something like the Freud TKR303 blade, place the good side of the sheet down, and use a straight edge clamp to guide the saw.

John

[A.M. Wood]

If you don't want to spend the money on the new blade, do yourself a favor and just chuck the bead board straight into the garbage. That way you won't have to spend all that time ripping it down and patching the holes in the wall.

[Unisaw A100]

Cut with anything you want and cover the bottom edge with base and the top with chair rail like God and Al Gore had intended.

UA100

[Leon]

If you are covering all the edges, the jig saw will probably be your best bet. Us a high quality, job specific blade, Bosch would be a good choice.

[Dan White]

OK, OK you made your point! I just figured something like the right jigsaw blade would to the trick maybe even better than the circular blade. Like I said, if circular is the best option, then I'd do that.

thanks, (I think) :) dwhite

[Dan White]

helps! --dave

Yes, thanks.

dwhite

[Dan White]

It is possible that I won't be covering the top portion on one wall. However, there is already a stainless lip on that part of the wall, so it kind of acts as a moulding. If I can get a clean cut close to this, then I won't have to cover it.

dwhite

[John]

Considering the cost of the beadboard, it is just plain stupid to go cheap on the project over buying a new blade for the circular saw to get a good cut edge

Screw up a couple cuts and have to buy new panels of beadboard and you will spend close to what buying the right blade would cost in the first place

John

[Dan White]

Yes, of course this is right. My point was kind of that I didn't want to spend $20 on a blade for the circular saw to find out later that I would have gotten a much better cut with a different blade on the saber saw. That's why I listed a few saws I had. Anyway, it is mute because I got a fine toothed circular blade for $5. I'll give it a careful test before using on the bead board.

Thanks! dwhite

wainscoating.