Keeping this relevant to the wRec, the following video shows us how to replace the power cord on a circular saw.
If you start at 4:30, you will see a technique for creating a "ring connector" from the bare power cord wires. What do think of this technique?
I have some issues with some of the other things he says and does in the video, but this question is mainly about the connection method he uses.
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote (in article):
The proper method is to crimp a ring crimp terminal onto the wires, if there is space -- which looks questionable in this case.
In the old days, manufacturers crimped a hollow brass eyelet around the stranded wire, creating a solid metal ring, but I have not seen that in ages, and it wasn´t something that one could afford to do at home anyway.
Failing that, I twist the copper strands into a solid bundle and tin the bundle with liquid rosin flux and radio solder, making a solid wire. This is bent around the terminal screw in the direction of tightening, and the screw is tightened. The wrap direction is critical to ensure that the wire does not squeeze out from under the terminal screw.
One could also form an eyelet as shown in the video, and then tinned the copper wire to solidify the ring.
The key is to ensure that thge terminal screw cannot cut the wire while being tightened.
. I would not have drilled the plastic to get to the torx screws in the plastic handle. One can get torx screwdriver inserts with 6" shafts.
I could not see how the cable was clamped on entry to the saw handle, but this area is critical.
Joe Gwinn
That was one of my issues also. In fact, on that model saw, the Torx screws are also slotted. A narrow flat blade screw driver works just fine in the deep handle hole.
The handle itself clamps the cord in 2 places.
1 - The hole formed by the 2 piece handle for the stress relief sleeve is smaller than the sleeve itself.2 - Interior from that, the handle pieces form another "hole" that has a straight plastic bar across it. As long as you leave the outer insulation on the cord, you basically need a clamp to close the handle before screwing it back together. You could use the screws to pull it together but I don't like putting that much stress on screws going into plastic.
BTW...I also don't like the fact that he used a 3 prong plug and cut the ground wire off on the inside, saying that using the 3 prong plug "doesn't hurt".
I don't like doing that more on principle than on any actual "danger". I do n't like giving the user the impression that a device is wired in a certain man ner (e.g. equipment ground is present) when in reality it is wired differently.
I don't think that that tool would be approved by OSHA for use on a job sit e if they knew that the ground wire was not being used.
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote (in article):
I agree. I would have connected the green to the motor frame somehow. But double-insulated does work anyway, so the safety is not reduced.
My lathe cane with floating green, and that lathe would give a tickle due to leakage from motor windings to motor frame, and thus to lathe cabinet. The short-tern fix was a green ground wite (with ring terminals at both ends) from cabinet to electrical safety ground. Wen I rewired the lathe, I discovered the floating green, and fixed the problem.
But I will say that the guy in the video probably is not an electrical guy, and so would not know what to do with that wire if he could not find a green terminal for it.
Well, actually it would have been approved when it came out, and also today. Double-insulated is still OK by UL.
Joe Gwinn
The thing I wonder about is how it got the three-wire cord to begin with. I suspect that the cord that was on it was not the original.
The "eylet" procedure he uses is not uncommon - but to do it ptoperly he should solder the loop
The full wire bent around the contact screw can often be too much - a crimprd ting is best, the "split eye" soldered is next best.
WHich is what "I" prefer
Correct - a bit of a "bodge"
Correct. The original likely had an insulated netalclamp around the cord. Or it was "bonded" into the strain releif (I've done it with silicone sealer)
The green wire isn't an OSHA issue, per se, but that cap plug would not pass. The saw came with a molded plug and most OSHA inspectors won't pass a "repaired" cord of any type.
I know they don't like manually installed ends - male or female - on extention cords. Used to repair damaged cords by making one cord into
Some inspectors may not be as "anal" as the ones around here -- -
On Dec 21, 2018, J. Clarke wrote (in article):
The fellow making the repair had made that repair some years earlier.
Joe Gwinn
Not the _plug_, the _cord_. He did not say that he had replaced the _cord_ earlier, or if he did I missed it.
Reading my reply I guess I should proofread my replies -fat finger syndrome hit again
Yes, when it came out - double insulted with a 2 prong plug.
Today, modified with a 3 prong plug and unconnected ground? I think not.
I'd wager that if that saw was taken in for repair at an OSHA certified repair shop, the shop would open it up and say "We can't put it back togeth er unless we replace the cord."
If they wanted to be extra cautious so as not to get on the wrong side of OSHA, they'd probably interpret the "approved" sections of this letter very strictly:
I could be wrong, but I'd wager a beverage or two on it.
The thing I wonder about is why you are wondering about the three-wire cord.
The cord that was on it (before the repair began) was only a 2 wire, and therefore probably the original. He did say that he has shortened it, but not that he had replaced it. (At about 2:50)
Now, jump ahead to about 8:00 when he tries to put the handle back on. He notes that the new cord is thicker. That's the first (possible) sign that the previous cord was only 2 wire and therefore probably the original. But wait until about 9:45 when he swaps the plug onto the new cord. He compares the insulation to the original stating "I didn't strip off very much insula tion." You can see that the previous cord is only 2 wire.
So, to recap, the cord that was on there was 2 wire, probably the original. He had at one time shortened that cord due to breaks in the insulation *and
I hope that helps with your wondering. ;-)
Years back, one of our techs was required by industrial safety to add a 3-prong cordset to a plastic wall clock. I asked what he did with the green wire. "Connected it to the case, of course." The inspector was happy.
*NOT* a good idea. Soldering the loop will put all the bending and vibration stress at the point where the solder ends. The wire will work-harden at that point.
On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 12:27:23 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote :
That's what happens when they hire safety personnel with no actual safety k nowledge just so that they can check the "Hired Safety Personnel" box.
Or when people are told to follow the rules, rather than understand the rules. BTW, this was in IBM.
On Saturday, December 22, 2018 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote :
ote:
:ow to replace
ng connector"
y knowledge just so
I used to work at a huge manufacturing/chemical plant. "Safety First" poste rs everywhere. Every department had a designated safety officer(s). Cash award s were given if a someone pointed out a safety issue.
As an IT tech I used to go everywhere within the plant. I won numerous cash awards for pointing out safety issues but only after I had to convince the safety officer of that department that it was an issue. Sometimes I had to escalate the issue because the safety officer just didn't get the point. The lack of common sense was really scary.
On Dec 22, 2018, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote (in article):
Only if one has not secured the cable at the entry point, as discussed upthread.
I have been doing this for decades, and have never had this problem.
If the assembly was going to undergo military-level vibration testing, then no soldering - must be crimped.
Joe Gwinn
On Dec 21, 2018, DerbyDad03 wrote (in article):
I agree with your interpretation ofthe OSHA page above, so I´ll not be betting any precious beverages.
But I´d wager that shops that are that too strict on such minor issues lose business. A few years ago, I overheard a general contractor musing about which plumber to use for a minor installation, commenting that one plumber always pulled a permit regardless, and so chose someone else for the job.
Not that changing the cord is such a disaster, but I bet there are bewildering and expensive stories aplenty.
Taken with the plastic clock story mentioned in the present thread, one wonders if it´s best to do our own repairs.
Joe Gwinn
I wonder if OSHA does sting operations to check these shops.
Other than those fake "mandatory" OSHA training sessions held by immigration officers, that is.
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