Kredit pocket holes

Subject should have been Kreg

You are probably aware that there are different screws (finer thread) for hardwoods. Are the proper drill point screws being used? Consider lubricating the screws with beeswax (cheap and local source is a toilet gasket)

No, I was not aware. Thank you very much.

And set the torque correctly on your power driver.

I don't use pockets but if I did and was having your problem I would assure that the drilled hole was full screw length + a skosh into the stile. If I still had probems I would use a bit with a slightly larger diameter.

Thanks dadiOH, Unfortunately the specialized drill bit making the holes does not reach into the stile. It does leave a mark, but does not enter.

I does not have to reach into the material being fastened. They are designed/manufactured with a drilling/cutting point. They were designed very well to go into hardwood without pre-drilling or splitting. Only on rare occasions with extremely hard woods do you need to pre-drill. I've done dozens and dozens of pocket hole connections in oak and the only time I've had splits is when I used the wrong screw or I didn't have thick enough material for the screw to enter. IOW, I went beyond the capabilities of a pocket hole screw.

In a follow-up you stated you may have been using a softwood screw instead of a hardwood screw. That is probably the problem.

A couple other things to consider...

1. As a matter of habit, I always try to stay as far away from the ends of boards (the stile, in your case) as possible.
2. The birch from HD might very well be kiln dried and have a very low moisture content making it prone to splitting.

Ivan,

As was stated earlier, you need the fine threaded screws when working with hardwoods.

This video gives a decent intro to the usage of the Kreg jig:

At about the 5:00 mark, he shows the comparison between both screws. He also shows a good technique for setting the proper drill depth.

Joe

One last thing. If the screw enters the stile too close to the end of the piece it will also split the wood. Use the #7 fine thread pocket hole screws, not ordinary wood screws.

I have also found that when you set the stop collar on the drill bit using the Kreg gauge, the drill barely (if ever) starts a hole in the second piec e of wood. This causes the second piece to be initially pushed away from t he first piece until the screw seats and pulls it back. Pulls it back but not always as precisely aligned as you would like. I like to set the stop collar a little higher on the drill bit so I get a little pilot action in t he second piece. By all means, experiment on scrap first.

ing all 4 doors, husband suggested that she might have used nicer quality L umber. She switched from clear pine to birch.

even just slightly by hand.

dicular to grain.

Howzabout some vids of pocket jigs made of metal. Or even jes some info. I do my best not to buy plastic tools. ;)

nb

HTH

That's what clamps are for.

Keep in mind, and I learned this the hard way, that with the drill going a little deeper the screw will come out the other side of the piece you are attaching to if you are going into the face of 3/4" plywood.

The guides on Kreg Jigs are metal.

Another AP possible option:

I certainly hope so!

Regardless, if I can buy an all metal one, why buy plastic? I'll never buy anything from Kreg, cuz they can make 'em outta metal, but choose plastic cuz it's cheaper.

Like I sed, I prefer NOT to buy plastic, if I can avoid it. Sometimes I cannot. ;)

nb

I have an older Kreg, looks like the one HF cloned...all metal body, only thing plastic is the clamp pad...my Kreg portable models are plastic with metal sleeves for the drill bit guide...

True enough, but that is not a problem if you clamp (using the face or pocket clamp) as recommended. I will "cheat" occasionally and not clamp

- relying on a literal "hand clamp" to hold the pieces in place or start the screw in the pocket and let it protrude just a hair before placing the pieces together. That generally eliminates the problem.