Kredit pocket holes

Daughter using 1x2'some to make simple cabinet doors frames. After finishing all 4 doors, husband suggested that she might have used nicer quality Lumber. She switched from clear pine to birch. Using birch (HD) every single stile splits when the screw gets tightened, even just slightly by hand. Again, pockets are in rail, parallel to grain. Screen enters stile perpendicular to grain. Screws are 1-1/4 inch. What gives? Pockets don't work on hard woods?
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Subject should have been Kreg
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On Tuesday, March 14, 2017 at 10:45:25 AM UTC-4, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

You are probably aware that there are different screws (finer thread) for hardwoods. Are the proper drill point screws being used? Consider lubricating the screws with beeswax (cheap and local source is a toilet gasket)
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No, I was not aware. Thank you very much.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes:

And set the torque correctly on your power driver.
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I don't use pockets but if I did and was having your problem I would assure that the drilled hole was full screw length + a skosh into the stile. If I still had probems I would use a bit with a slightly larger diameter.
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Thanks dadiOH, Unfortunately the specialized drill bit making the holes does not reach into the stile. It does leave a mark, but does not enter.
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On 3/14/17 12:47 PM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

I does not have to reach into the material being fastened. They are designed/manufactured with a drilling/cutting point. They were designed very well to go into hardwood without pre-drilling or splitting. Only on rare occasions with extremely hard woods do you need to pre-drill. I've done dozens and dozens of pocket hole connections in oak and the only time I've had splits is when I used the wrong screw or I didn't have thick enough material for the screw to enter. IOW, I went beyond the capabilities of a pocket hole screw.
In a follow-up you stated you may have been using a softwood screw instead of a hardwood screw. That is probably the problem.
A couple other things to consider... 1. As a matter of habit, I always try to stay as far away from the ends of boards (the stile, in your case) as possible. 2. The birch from HD might very well be kiln dried and have a very low moisture content making it prone to splitting.
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Ivan,
As was stated earlier, you need the fine threaded screws when working with hardwoods.
This video gives a decent intro to the usage of the Kreg jig:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvO6zaIUO18

At about the 5:00 mark, he shows the comparison between both screws. He also shows a good technique for setting the proper drill depth.
Joe
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One last thing. If the screw enters the stile too close to the end of the piece it will also split the wood. Use the #7 fine thread pocket hole screws, not ordinary wood screws.
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Howzabout some vids of pocket jigs made of metal. Or even jes some info. I do my best not to buy plastic tools. ;)
nb
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https://vimeo.com/125813103

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264.html
HTH
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On 3/15/2017 11:32 AM, notbob wrote:

The guides on Kreg Jigs are metal.
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On Wednesday, March 15, 2017 at 4:16:47 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

Another AP possible option: (Amazon.com product link shortened)00Q97ZA8&pd_rd_r=9ZE96JHMTHM2J4TFGGSV&pd_rd_w=9rWoX&pd_rd_wg=NZaCp&psc=1&refRID=9ZE96JHMTHM2J4TFGGSV
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I certainly hope so!
Regardless, if I can buy an all metal one, why buy plastic? I'll never buy anything from Kreg, cuz they can make 'em outta metal, but choose plastic cuz it's cheaper.
Like I sed, I prefer NOT to buy plastic, if I can avoid it. Sometimes I cannot. ;)
nb
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On Wednesday, March 15, 2017 at 4:55:14 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:

I have an older Kreg, looks like the one HF cloned...all metal body, only thing plastic is the clamp pad...my Kreg portable models are plastic with metal sleeves for the drill bit guide...
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On 3/15/2017 3:55 PM, notbob wrote:

Well, I do have an all metal Kreg jig that I bought many years ago. Great tool except the plastic ones are better thought out. And I have not worn one out yet. I much prefer lighter weight, built in risers, and especially front clamping levers. I got really tired of reaching around or over large panels to apply the clamp. And I got tired of finding shims to keep the panels from tilting. And the blue Kregs have dust collection that works extremely well. Humm and the blue Kregs adjust more easily to multiple thicknesses of stock for clamping and for drilling position.
Use a tool a lot you really start to appreciate light weight.
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Most of the all metal pocket hole jigs I have seen are not as adjustable as a lot of kreg jigs are might be a reason not to allow your prejudice against any plastic in a tool to blind you.
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+1 (Amazon.com product link shortened)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-EbDMqR4qg

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On 3/16/2017 5:54 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:

the problem with the "nonadjustable" jig is that it is designed for 3/4" thick material. You can put 2 by material in it but the screws exit and enter other 2 by material 3/8" from the edge. Ideally all pocket hole screws should enter and exit the material near the center of the material.
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