Our local electrical tool repair depot always uses manufacturer supplied or authorized replacement cords unless they are no longer available, where they usually try to use a similar cord from the suppliers other products, or a competitors part that is functionally similar. They virtually NEVER use a "made up " cord.
Another component to this discussion is who pays the repair depot to re-assemble the tool?? Generally the "diagnosis" dissassembly is not charged out. Our local repair center usually has a pretty good stack of "abandoned" non-repairable tools. What does the contractor want an unuseable tool for???
I have had several tools that replacement parts were no longer available for, which, upon further investigation could be "updated" by replacing one or two extra parts (of a sub-assembly) so currently available parts could be used. One required replacement of the entire plastic handle when the original switch and switch cover were no longer available (the handle for the tool's replacement fit perfectly) and another required replacement of the entire"ram" portion of a SawzAll when the bearing portion was no longer available. Again, the parts from the tools successor fit perfectly as an assembly (something like $20 worth of parts instead of $9 - on a $139 tool)
As in aviation repairs - where "soldered connections MUST be supported" - which is generally interpreted as "crimp only"
On Sat, 22 Dec 2018 04:56:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 wrote: SNIPPED
I take more exception to his statement that the position of the wires (black vs white) inside the tool doesn't matter. There is a reason ALL double insulated devices have "polarized" plugs!
A 3 prong plug, if properly wired, plays the part of a "polarized plug" by ensuring the neutral wire of the tool always finds the neutral of the outlet - - -
That said - the PROPER polarized cord, correctly connected, is the PROPER way to repair it.
What he did - with the exception of disregarding the "polarity" of the cord was likely "safe" for home and personal use but would NOT pass on a job-site.
That one was on my list too. There were a number of things that I took exception to, which was why I asked my question about the "homemade ring connector". With all the other things that I considered "wrong" I was wondering if I should add that to my list.
I laughed at one of his other lines, in reference to blowing the saw dust out of the handle. "Repair shops don't do it, so I'm not going to either."
I have my own saying about keeping things clean: "If I'm cleaning it, I'm looking at it."
I keep my vehicles as close to spotless as possible, inside and out. If I'm vacuuming it, I'm looking in every nook and cranny. I might see a damaged seat belt anchor or a lose wire under a seat. If I'm wiping down the door jambs, I might find rust. If I'm wiping down the engine, I might see oil seepage.
The same goes for blowing the saw dust out of the handle as long as I have it open. It can't hurt, it can only help.
There's another issue with solder on connections that carry significant power--heat it up and solder melts. I ran into this with the ground cable on a Volvo once. Took me the longest time to figure it out--when the weather was warm the car would start fine, when it was cold it wouldn't, but when I checked things the battery and cables were fine. Wasn't until I noticed something smoking one day that I figured out that it was the soldered-on ground clamp that most of the solder had run out of so there wasn't much contact but enough that a meter showed low resistance. Had a connector one crimped on and the problem went away.
Admittedly this is less likely to be an issue with a saw but it's still worth bearing in mind. There's a reason NEC requires pressure connectors and not solder.
What the heck kind of solder did you use? Isn't the melting point of common solder up near 350 degrees?
Most wire solder for electronics around 700 F iron is used, solder paste 185 C and 170 C ( for two sided boards that are soldered ). Plumbing solder not sure.
Except in the case of surface mount components solder should NEVER be the primary connection. All soldered joints should be "mechanically secure" before soldering. In other words, crimp AND solder, or twist AND solder. On battery cables you crimp to make the electrical and mechanical connection, then you solder to seal and protect the joint. (gas tight joint - which is also the aim of a properly crimped (or "crimp-welded" electrical connector. Even then, if the soldered cable end came loose, you had other problems - like a loose or corroded bolt-on connection that caused the connection to heat up. A properly connected and soldered cable end does NOT heat up enouigh to melt the solder.
70-30 is 376F. 63-37, which is the lowest melting point lead solder is 361F. 60-40 - the most common electrical/electronic solder is up there at 370F as well. Eutectic solders do not have a "plastic"stage - they melt and solidify at virtually the same temperature making poor or "cold" joints slightly less likely.
Assuming the story is actually factual. It sounds more like a "I heard from someone who heard from someone" to me.
The only thing I was thinking was a loose connection that would cause arcing. That could certainly melt... and weld. :-)
I have no idea what kind of solder Volvo used.
Doesn't matter. A little resistance in the joint and lots of current will heat it enough to melt solder. Remember, a car battery has enough juice to weld with.
The problem with that statement is "properly connected and soldered". If it's "properly connected" it doesn't need solder and if it's soldered you can't tell if it's being held together by the "proper connection" or by the solder. In any case, it was a Volvo cable that came on the car, the car was bought new, so if you have a problem with its manufacture don't point fingers at _me_, point them at Volvo.
Note, Swedes must have mad driving skills--I've had two Volvos and they were both horrible winter cars. Got stuck at the drop of a hat, didn't like to start, the heater froze on one (not the coolant in the heater core, the _fan_ managed to get full of ice, freeze, and burn out the motor).
Never seen a soldered battery cable from the factory on ANY Volvo.
540, 122, 240 or P1800 seriesWhere are you driving?? The Volvo was no worse than - and in many cases much better than - any other compact or midsized rear wheel drive vehicle in the winter handling department
And it could destroy a crimped connection too. My bet is a loose connection overheated the crimped connectionand it let go - with no solder involved.
Ohio, Connecticut, points in between. And I did not have near as much trouble in the winter with a Lincoln Town Car, Toyota Supra, or Corvette as I did with the Volvos. None of those struggled to get up the hill on the way to work and all of them started first time every time. Hell, there were days when I rode my motorcycle to work because the Volvo wouldn't move (not wouldn't start, wouldn't _move_--there was a half an inch of ice on the parking lot and it couldn't manage to climb up on top of it).
Nope. There was no sign of a crimp. There was a fitting that appeared to be die-cast--trying to crimp it would likely have busted it. It had a hole in it. There was a cable that was by that time a loose sliding fit in the hole. The cable would slide in and out, there was nothing holding it except solder and the solder was mostly gone.
As for being loose, I had to use a breaker bar to get the damned thing off.
Sorry, but your apologetics for soldered joints are falling on deaf ears here.
That's another good one. They wouldn't pay engineers for safety, or other suggestions but they would pay hourly staff. I'd just point out problems to my technician and he'd collect the easy money. Often it was stupid things like a sign blocking an Exit sign, and such. The safety people would get pissed-off because they were supposed to catch such things.
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