> Hi All, any body got any experience using the "Rockler Dovetail Jig
Looks just like the Jet I just bought at a lower cost from Amazon.
The set up is a little complex, but straight forward.
Keep the directions handy.
It will give you good dovetails if you are very careful in its use. The
black template that the router rests on and the router insert guide follows
(the black piece with the fingers) is bowed slightly in the plane of the
face on mine. It can be adjusted for most normal drawer depths, but for very
deep ones the half blinds are not all the same depth. Also, the clamping of
the drawer fronts (and backs depending on which I am cutting) under the
black template on top is not absolute. Unless I fill up the balance of the
width for the drawer fronts with stock of the same thickness as the drawer
stock (i.e., simulate a drawer of maximum depth that can be used), the
drawer fronts (or backs) are always kicked slighly sideways, while the side
being cut at the same time is not. This makes the tops and the bottoms of
the fronts (or backs) and the sides not align well. But the price is good
(especially when it is on sale, which it was when I bought mine) and as long
as you take some extra precautions, it cuts fairly good dovetails.
and the current issue covers several more:
Time to go buy a copy of the magazine now on the stands.
I bought one four or five years ago, made two drawers, and then gave it
away. More trouble than it was worth.
The Akeda jig caught my eye next, and that was 8 or 10 projects, before I
ran into something I thought I should be able to do, but couldn't.
They all have a limitation. Pick yours.
My current solution is a LN Dovetail saw & their chisels...
I borrowed one which was identical to the *Rockler* as there are many
clones of this jig and I agree it was more hassle to set it up than it was
However there is room for improvement on this jig in the way the straight
edges on the left and right of the base, for instance these straight edges
can be made as 1 unit instead of 2 seperate units on each side.
These can be made with 3mm Aluminium,the profile can be cut flat and then
bent for the front slot,as its aluminium this will give a better straight
edge and can be cut/filed so that it slides in the slot with precision.
Full straight joints can be aquired by raising the horizontal piece with a
1/4" ply underneath and the vertical stock leveled to the horizontal top
piece the router can then be set for depth just below the horizontal bottom
By the time one gets done fussing around with a $75 jig, you might as
well buy the $150 one. Or hand cut the joints.
Fussing around with tools is part of the hobby, but there is a limit on
how much time I'm willing to invest in fixing a low-end fixture.
But that's just me. Enjoy your shop time!
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