That might be a handy tool if some sort of incremental jig attachment
was formulated for shelf pins, except for the cost of the tool over a
I've always just marked shelf pin holes with a ruler and pencil and
then gone at them with a forstner bit and a piece of tap to indicate
depth. Guess I'm too cheap to buy a manufactured jig of some sort.
Admittedly, I've been fortunate not to blast through some project
coming out the finished side.
I've drilled for European style hinges with just a hand held cordless
drill, the key is measuring twice, never failed me yet.
The best was a double door closet, three holes each, the doors are about
7 1/2 feet tall, working just fine after about 8 years. Lots of
compliments on them.
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
I think they had multi-tasking in mind. If you're going to make a double
doweling machine, my not make the spacing a "standard" used in other
I don't think anyone buys it for shelf pins, but when it's sitting on
the shelf (pun) and you need to drill pin holes, go ahead and grab it.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I have been using this jig and bit assy. since before 1998. Pick one up
while you are getting your Domino. ;~)
The forums (fora) are a great place to start. CNC Zone is one, the
forum on Shopbottools.com is another (imo, better) and more
specifically the different areas on the Vectric site.
The Vectric site deals with all levels of CNC operations pertaining to
their (in my case Aspire) software.
I am not aware of a book for wooddorkers per se. Much of the CNC
literature out there seems to be dealing with more industrial stuff
like machine shops and mass production.
Start off at the Shopbot site.
Yeah, that would be a bit too wide for face frames. 32mm OC is about 1.25"
OC and then add at least .25" for the radius of the two dowels and if not
perfectly centered on a 1.5" wide face frame you would have a blow out on
one side or the other. I'd say a minimum of 2" for the face frames.
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