Hey gang,
I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running down the leg similar to this:
I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
Any ideas?
Thanks
FWIW - Rockler has a jig for flutes -
GarageWoodworks wrote: ...
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Doable; been there done it that way.
Or you could bit the bullet and buy one of the mult-flute bits; there are many choices of size/number of flutes.
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Thanks Matt, I had not seen this jig before. Good tip.
Do the grooves look like a core box bit? It's a crummy picture. They could be V-groove.
I've only come across ones with three flutes. Do you you know of a link to one with more?
I'd likely do it on the router table with a core box bit and a featherboard to keep it tight against the fence. A jig for handheld wouldn't be all that hard to cobble up though.
Agreed, the picture is crummy. I thought the groves had been done with a core box bit, but that could have simply been that I saw in it what I wanted to see (darn bifocals anyway!). The technical info pages list core box, v-groove, straight bits, and others as "additional accessories you might be interested in", so I *assume* you could pretty much use the bit of your choice.
Matt
Save yourself 70 bucks and make that jig... it's pretty simple.
Do you have a table?
I just googled "core box bit" and saw a bunch of radius bits. Is that all it is?
Mike,
I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks more appealing to the client.
Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler:
Do you own a lathe?
jc
Nevermind that stupid question. ,
GarageWoodworks wrote: ...
OTOMH, no--I'm pretty sure I've seen 5-flute/bead multi-bits as well as
3 but couldn't say if were Amana/Whiteside/CMT/somebody-else at the moment.On making, my preferred way is to set fence to center first cut (which is relatively simply done by using test piece and reversing ends 'til get no mismatch from either direction). Then, cut all pieces at that setting and adjust fence back next step distance (again, checking on your test piece). Then, cut the two next closest to center, one from each direction. That's a 3-flute/bead; repeat once for each additional pair. Rarely if ever have I seen more than five on anything but a very large architectural moulding.
As for the question raised earlier, for a furniture piece as your sample I'd tend to prefer round fluting as opposed to veining; for one thing it doesn't collect dust as badly or is more easily cleaned w/o the sharp corner.
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When I think "flutes" I think raduis, which is what those core box bits are.
Although that pics appears to be either very tiny flutes or just giving the appearance of columns. They could be saw blade curfs, which would be a lot easier.
You didn't say if you had a router table.
When I made the fluted trim for these...
Not sure I would've done that for just fluting, but since I made all that trim, custom, I used the router *a lot* on that project.
I did this for a customer when I built a butcher block table. I did it all on the router table and like you indicated used spacer blocks between the fence and the leg. Run one side, flip ends and run the other, that will give you evenly spaced inner flutes, then add you spacer and repeat. Test on scraps for proper spacing.
Sorry. Yes, I have a router table.
Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides.
Another good tip. Thanks!
Thanks everyone that contributed here! I think I have enough to go by now thanks to you guys. :^)
I think it's easier to control the cuts with a table.
GarageWoodworks wrote: ...
BTW, as somebody else noted w/ shims--if use a piece of shim stock that thickness in the centering phase, simply removing it provides the proper indexing for the next pass. Again, repeat as needed.
Only hiccup thing I've experienced that way is that must be sure whatever the shim material is is straight and firmly against the fence as well as each piece is identical thickness if doing, say, 5 flutes so need two pieces. In general, that's only an issue for very small flutes where need
I just did this for the rockler murphy bed bookcases. I had the face frames put together and I wanted stopped flutes so they didn't leave gaps behind the base and crown moldings. I used a 1/8" radius round nose bit and made the flutes 1/8" deep. For the spacing, I made a sample piece with a centered flute and one edge flute. I clamped stops on the face frame and set the edge guide on the router by placing the bit in the sample and adjusting the edge guide. I did the same for the outside flutes, one with the sample flute closest to the edge guide and the other with the sample flute farthest away from the edge guide.
There's a pic in this album where you can see the flutes in the face frames:
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