Cutting down a solid-core door

I'd venture the brushes failing at that time had nothing in common w/ the fact that it was the door(s) being cut; it was just there time in all likelihood.

No surprising tips other than to be sure the blade isn't _terribly_ dull and is intended for the general purpose--iow, don't use a plywood or no-set finish blade...

On 9/28/2011 12:18 PM, dpb wrote: ...

...it was just THEIR time...

whose time? ; )

That makes sense, except that the saw has gotten pretty light use over the years. Maybe it was a grammar problem ... ;)

Any thoughts on which blade/saw combo would be better?

Could be some corrosion on the commutator that took them out. The other thought is to make sure that the shoe is parallel to the blade. It may have gotten whacked somewhere along the line.

For a general purpose circular saw blade, I've liked the narrow kerf Diablo blades. That's pretty much all I used in the cordless saw. For a saw, well, Festool! (somebody had to say it ;-)

The coarse one.

Is this a composite solid-core (from the particle-wood tree, etc., ... :) ) or a solid-wood door?

In this case, it's the standard HD article, so more likely the former.

It shouldn't matter. Even Masonite, veneered doors often have a pine frame around the perimeter. But back to my first point, it shouldn't matter. The door had nothing to do with it.

Either the saw is really underpowered for whatever reason. or your blade was really dull. Any carbide tooth blade in a decent saw would cut through a solid door with minimal effort, whether it's cutting solid wood, or termite vomit.

Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain on the motor. You don't gain any safety advantage by setting a portable saw light, since your fingers are well-shielded by a 2" thick slab of wood.

How is that?

Shorter path through the wood. Easier for the gullets to eject chips.

I wasn't asking for that reason but for consideration of finish...

A combination 24T will do reasonably well. If it is veneered you'll have better luck minimizing splinter/tearout in the surface if you score the line w/ a sharp knife first. Also, covering the cut area w/ a layer of masking or painters tape serves to help minimize that as well as provides a protection against marring a finished surface w/ the baseplate of the saw.

--

Thanks. I used a knife and tape (and cut with the more important side of the doors "down) the last time I did it. I plan to again.

Even though the saw had not been in any way over-used over it's lifetime, I also suspected that the brushes may have been ready to fail. But I've found that when I ask a question here, I frequently get good advice from directions that I hadn't anticipated.

I've also applied a sacrificial base plate for a circular saw. This protects the door from scuffs and it keeps the upper side of the veneer from splintering.

Makes sense to me.

It does, but it's also a moot point with a decent saw and blade.

Use a guide rail for the cut. Any wandering will be eliminated so the blade should stay at full speed all the way.

Tape, knife, guide, new blade, and an easy push on the saw should add up to giving you a quick and easy door trimming, Greg.

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Agreed!

Um, one shouldn't have their fingers anywhere -near- the saw blade while it is cutting, Dad. Besides, your suggestion there just put someone at risk of a multiple severing of fingers. Smooth!

-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson