I've seen doors cut freehand and know better than to ever try it (again) myself. DAMHIKT, but the others I've seen were much worse.
-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
AND a built-in guide.
LJ--I'm gettin' itchier.
-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air? -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Now that all the suggestions are in, I'll add the one that will really work, although might be out side of your budget.
;!)
Lots of things aren't "necessary" but we still use them. Especially when we're talking about having one chance to make a perfect cut on an expensive door.
"Like"
I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically remember it being a safety tip.
It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip it more than if the angle had been smaller?
Seems to me I would want as many teeth as possible in contact with the cutting area to get the smoothest cut. But that's just me. I mean, I don't mind my saw blade getting all red hot and my saw bogging down and melting the brushes.
I seem to remember being taught to have the blade protrude only a half-inch or so. It might have been shop class, or maybe my Dad, but either way it would have been in the Seventies. I don't specifically remember it being a safety tip.
It seems undeniable that the blade would contact less of the work if it is used at full depth, especially with a thick piece of wood, and thus present less of a strain to the motor. But are there any consequences for the cut itself? It seems to me that the teeth would cut through the top surface of the wood nearly vertically. Would that not tend to chip it more than if the angle had been smaller?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It will chip out more but the chip out will be on the bottom. The overall finish will be worse though. Now, can we have a three day thread on how to sharpen a pointy stick?
I'll stick with the shallower cut then.
Ignorance is the default state for human beings as regards most topics. Overcoming it frequently involves asking, politely. I have expended quite a lot of verbiage answering questions from fledgling musicians over the years, often on what seemed like "pointy-stick" level questions to me. But I was a beginner once also, and would have appreciated some good advice. Thanks for yours.
I was taught that the entire tooth should stick out so the gullets can clear. Any more just caused increased chipping and more dust to fly.
Yes. More chipping. TANSTAAFL.
Why not plane it down - with an electric plane.
Mart> >> Set the blade to full depth. Runs cooler with less strain
CW needs a new blade with more than 3 teeth left on it. Don't listen to him. ;)
A layer of masking tape on both sides will keep chipping to a minimum. Peel the freshly-cut-in-half tape off -toward- the cut to keep from pulling chips up. Now seal that bottom WELL so it can't absorb water!
-- Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
I picked up one of the little HF electric planers and they're wonderful to use. I use mine to taper plywood for ramps and such. It's a real timesaver. Some day, I'll remember to take the shop vac and hook it up so it's not so bloody messy.
BUT, sawing a door with a circ saw is the best method I've ever used.
-- Win first, Fight later.
--martial principle of the Samurai
Greg Guarino wrote in news:j5vkkr$6ba$1@dont- email.me:
If your Skil is like mine, you may want to blow it out with some compressed air. I had some gunk stuck in the upper guard (old trex shavings) and as soon as I cleaned it out the saw ran much better. On the initial cut, I thought it was time to replace the blade, but on the final cut there was no doubt that it was ok.
Interestingly, it looked like the size of the sawdust particles decreased as well. Maybe the blade was running at speed and taking smaller bites?
Puckdropper
----------------- What?
And use the tool designed to do the job!
Surely you jest.
Lew
a: brakleen is not flammable b: brakleen will not hurt paint. we use it all the time to remove tar c: brakleen will not clean the junk off a carb that needs to come off.
That can take quite a while and make a heck of a lot of sawdust if you need to remove an inch or more.
Hmm, the stuff I have now is not Brakleen, it's O'Reilly Brake Parts Cleaner and it contains methanol, acetone, and toluene. EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE.
Brakleen containes Tetrachloroethylene, chloroethylene, and petroleum distillates. Hmm, NONflammable.
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