Neeeeeee! "Castor" is an oil. "Casters" are wheeled things.
Don't screw up again or I'll say "shrubbery" again.
Holy bassetball players, Batman! That's not a baseboard, it's a
So leave the outer boards quickly removable for access.
You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will
preserve for our children this, the last best hope
of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take
the last step into a thousand years of darkness.?
-- Ronald Reagan
Well, it shrunk by 2.5" inches yesterday as I learned my local 2by8s are
just 7" wide (and scarcely more than 1 3/8" thick).
BTW, thanks for differentiating castor from caster for me. Looking up
the directions online, I almost buried mine! ; )
Anything outside the leveling bolts (or casters when they're up) is wasted
(and something more to trip over). I'd use something like this...
- or -
...as close to the corners as possible.
It didn't occur to me until today but it seems I be leaving some space
between my 5 fir/pine running boards (2x8s) to allow for their expansion
due to humidity and temperature. Please advise as to how much space I
should leave. I would prefer to leave as little as possible.
I apologize if this seems petty to anyone. It seems like the closer I
get to doing something the right way, the more nervous I get about it.
When I was hammering in my wire staples this summer, I didn't catch my
finger with the hammer until next to the last one! I didn't whimper, I
forget the exact phrase I used. :)
Among several I read, this was the most useful article I found:
I guessed, with all the snow outside here in Indianapolis, that there
was high humidity outside (currently-52%). But from looking at an
annual chart, I see I was mistaken, it is just the opposite. I infer
from the article to leave a nickel's width between each pair of 2by8s.
Mike M., I hope they don't mean buffalo nickels. : )
If you put them tight, I'll bet you a nickel that they will have more than a
nickel's gap by the time 6 months goes past.
Hint: Framing grade lumber is 12% moisture, or higher. Wood in a heated and
cooled space will easily get down to 9%.
Thanks for yet another lesson. In my case, the materials are in an
attached garage, with big temperature swings depending on the season.
I'm not sure if that fits your definition of a "heated and cooled
space"? Put 'em in snug, huh?
Wait a minute. How about casters with threaded stems, put a tee-nut on
the bottom a cross-piece and a hex nut on the top, when it's time to
move you loosen the hex nut, turn the stem down until the weight is on
the caster, then sock down the hex nut to hold it in place. When you've
got it moved reverse the procedure to lift the caster?
I use the castors (wheels) that swivel on a ball bearing base in all
directions. Mount them so the base is an inch or two off the ground. If
you make a 2 x 4 base, you could cut or leave a (lets use approximate
dimensions) 2" x 3" hole in the base. Cover over the hole with a piece of
3/4" plywood onto the top side of the base. If you used a 3" caster, and
mount it to the underside of the ply, which would leave the base a little
over one inch off the floor.
Put the bolts through from the top of the base close to the outer edges of
the base for maximum stability. The end are on the concrete when you
tighten them up and continue tightening the bolt until they lift the wheels
a fraction of an inch off the ground. The action of threads only lifting
one corner of the machine at a times makes it very effortless to lift a very
heavy machine, and level it perfectly and not have it move when you apply
any side forces to the machine.
The description above makes more sense now. At first, I though the lag
bolts and the castors were mechanically connected... it's more like two
Bolts seems to make more sense than screws With all that weight sitting
on a retracted screw, it seems like it wouldn't take to long to strip
out the wood. I'll know more after I see what sorts of parts, like
thread inserts, I can get at the BORG.
Do you think these castors will work okay (they are rated for 176 pounds
each). The 4" ones won't quite fit on the twobyfour frame, and it's not
like they are going to see much mileage):
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId051&productId 2205536&langId=-1&catalogId053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-202205542-_-202205536-_-N&locStoreNum 19&marketID'6
Jim (I thought this post was a better place to ask my question, so
Please ignore that I'm asking here too),
Did you use (soft) angle steel stock to make your own pieces? If so, it
seems like hardening it would be necessary too, no?
Recall my little project (http://web.newsguy.com/MySite /).
Having not tried my router yet, I was thinking of getting a "piloted
1 1/2" flush trim bit" (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 322)
to trim my "running boards" to size--taking off very little of the ends
of my twobyeights. I assume it may leave an even nicer edge than my
circular saw did (too).
Rockler advises a router table for this bit. Is this a safe enough cut
to do by hand? The wood is fir.
P.S. The "Woodworking Shows" is coming to Indianapolis this
weekend--should be fun!
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