Not joining the argument but I'd say the likelihood of sufficient to cause failure of the trip mechanism is miniscule at best and likely not physically possible to accumulate sufficient mass of material in places it would have to be to have caused same.
The far likelier issue w/ either is a sensor failure on demand I'd suspect.
That is possible too. But debris build up could happen with a stray chunk lodging in there somewhere, these mechanisms are pretty complicated under the hood compared to a saw with out the safety feature. But like you said it is unlikely for that to happen but if you are paying a premium for a safety feature redundancy might be an advantage.
Using that logic, you would have to say they are both insufficient and shouldn't be trusted to save your fingers because they neither uses
*three* lines of defense to prevent you from being cut during a trigger.
LOL. Yeah! But you have to start somewhere. Enter chain-mail into the mix.
On 09/16/2015 9:41 AM, Leon wrote: ...
The complexity is in the electronics, however, not the mechanicals.
I'd also posit the SS "brake" isn't redundant; it only works if the retraction is successful as the blade slamming into the pawl is the brake--if it don't retract, it don't slam.
I think the plate might actually require straightening after. I can't imagine that the forces would not cause any deformation while happening.
Looking at the carbide is one thing, having Forrest go over my plate was another.
The big picture is.. you don't lose your finger. So either is cheap by comparison.
If you triggered it for REAL its saved you thousands and pain. If you triggered it falsely.. well then you are aggravated either way. But the Bosch would be cheaper. But again, it's a small saw.
On 9/16/2015 9:24 AM, dpb wrote: ...
I think the plate might actually require straightening after. I can't imagine that the forces would not cause any deformation while happening. ...
Well, yes, that's routine every time you send them one, whether it's been in a SS event or not...
Wrong. The brake is fired into the blade by a spring, regardless of the blade dropping. It's that action that causes the blade to drop. It tries to remove some of the inertia.
I'm sure the blade would have to be reflattened. IIRC Forrest charges by time involved. So you are quickly coming up on just buying a new blade.
That will just get caught and drag your extremities into the blade. (going further out on the it could happen scale) ;)
On 09/16/2015 2:50 PM, Leon wrote: ...
IIRC, the quoted repair on the one in question was
Actually the brake slams into the blade and the force of the mass transfers to a trip lever. Some how I tripped the lever, while fiddling around down there and the arbor/brake/carriage assembly dropped to the lower section of the saw. DAMHIDT. ;~) But there is a possibility that something could interfere with the downward travel, though not very likely. The brake "shoe" pivots on a steel rod on that carriage assembly. The shoe under spring tension is held in place internally by a fusible link. The fusible link is holding that compressed spring that forces the shoe to pivot into the blade should the fusible link melt. And the brake is curved with approximately the same diameter as the blade. The brake "shoe" has to be adjusted to about 1/16 of actually touching the blade. I have to make that adjustment every time I switch from my older sharpened 10" blade to my unsharpened 8" dado set and visa versa.
So actually the SS brake begins to stop the blade before it drops the blade.
Precicely
Reflattening might be routine for you but Forrest does not re-flatten or check flatness for that matter unless requested.
When I send my blades in to Forrest for resharpening I give specific instructions to return to factory specs instead of do this, do that, do what ever. I also tell them to call me if repairs and resharpening will exceed $50. I think I only had to pay extra to re-flatten one time after I tilted the bevel with the zero insert in place. Forrest does not assume anything, they want explicit instructions.
OK add seat belts and air bags to keep you from being pulled in. LOL
I don't think I have ever had Forrest replace a tooth, so maybe they automatically re-flatten in that situation but not if they simply resharpen.
They don't always retension and flatten, only if it's out. I know mine was out of whack. The price was not that bad. I can't remember, and don't see it in my files on m laptop. I'll see if it's filed in my file cabinet when I get home.
But it was reasonable for a sharpening and straightening.
That's good wording. I stopped by there one day. I explained the problem I was experiencing while cutting. He looked at my carbide, said it needed sharpening. Then he brought it over to one of the guys for a quick inspection. They work in dark rooms, I assume they are using an optical comparitor. He quickly checked and said it was warped.
That would explain the rough cuts.
Next blade I buy will be a full kerf rather than a thin kerf. But that's after I get my saw stop.
Is it?
Sure. Information is good but in this case what the consumer thinks isn't important. Only the court matters.
I did read Gass' patents, though (and I used to read technical patents as part of my job) and the things are very well written. There isn't a lot of wiggle room around them. Gass is a lot of things but dummy isn't one of them.
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